Thursday, December 28, 2006

Running Through a Thousand years of History 穿越千年歷史的長跑

Running Through a Thousand years of History – Angkor Wat International Half-Marathon

Anthony and I became friends when we joined hiking activities together. However, the number of time we met on the running tracks was far more than that in the countryside, since he is an enthusiast of cross-country running as well as a good amateur half-marathon runner. During a hiking and camping trip in the Mainland in October, we were taking about an overseas half-marathon event being held in two month's time. I had been running for more than 4 years, and the only overseas event I had joined was the Beijing Marathon last year. But that was not the reason of my being interested in the event. What interested me was actually the venue – the nearly thousand-year-old Angkor Wat of Cambodia, world heritage site and one of the 7 wonders of the world. This is probably a once-a-lifetime event for many runners. I knew that a group of Hong Kong runners had planned to go, and Anthony was going to check out if I could join.

A month had passed but there was still no news. Since internet online registration was available, the plan was to wait until the air tickets were confirmed. However, seats for direct flights from Hong Kong to Siem Reap (where the Angkor Wat is located) were limited and ticket booking was rather complicated. In addition, the number of people going was ever changing (eventually there were only 4 going : Anthony, Brian the organizer, me and Kenneth). By the time the tickets were confirmed, the online registration was already closed. Thanks to hard work by Brian who organized this trip, we finally got a place in the participants' list.

The event was held on Sunday, the 17th of December. We were already in Siem Reap, the ancient capital of Cambodia, in the evening of the 15th, since there were direct flights only on Monday, Wednesday and Friday each week. We had spent a whole day sightseeing in the ancient ruins of the Angkor city on the next day, and checked out the route of the half-marathon at the same time. Our legs were actually exhausted by the end of the day, but the magic of the traditional Khmer massage had worked wonder on us. Early in the morning at 05:40 of the 17th, we left the hotel in the dark on a Tuk Tuk (3-wheel motor cycle commonly used in SE Asia for transportation), heading for the starting point of the event – Angkor Wat. The weather in December was rather pleasant in Cambodia : temperature at 23 degree Celsius in the morning, and relative humidity 50%, rather comfortable for running a half-marathon too.

Now in its 11th year, the Angkor Wat Half-marathon event was organized by the Japanese NGO “Heart of Gold” from the Okayama city of Japan, and joined by the Cambodian Olympic Committee. What was special about the event was the participation of many Cambodian landmine victims. The main aims were to increase the world's awareness of the landmine problems and the care of the victims. Most of the registration fees collected were used for the victims' rehabilitation and the HIV/AIDS Awareness Program for the young people in Cambodia. Arimori Yuko of Japan, the "Heart of Gold" ambassador as well as the Atlanta Olympic marathon medal holder, had also joined the race. The number of participants reached its highest this year, with 2,757 runners from 32 countries.

6:00 a.m., the starting point in front of the entrance causeway of Angkor Wat was packed with people. The half-marathon event started at 6:30, and w had to gather at the starting line before we could barely warm-up ourselves. There was no time-zone arrangement, and suddenly we found that we were standing at the first row with Arimori Yuko. I was too embarrassed to stay there and therefore moved aside, since I was such a slow runner and did not want to become an obstacle the others.

The starting gun was fired, and everyone sprinted forwards. The beautiful morning sun rose from behind the temple towers of the Angkor Wat at the same time, but hardly anyone had noticed that. The first 1km was along the moat of the Angkor Wat. I could see wild monkeys coming out from the wood and watching the runners passing by. The wheel chair group started 15 minutes after us, and they caught up with us as we were approaching the 2.5km turning-back point.

I had not had any training since the last Nike 10K race as I had been sick for a while. Therefore I was not hoping for anything but completing the race in a relaxing way. The track was actually nearly prefect : flat, straight, asphalt-paved, densely wooded on both sides, with water station at every 2.5km, and the beautiful ancient temples and ruins scattered along the route. I was able to keep the pace of 5min/km on the first 10km. It was really enjoyable to run along the ancient wall, passing by the monumental ruins and temples of Prasat Kravan, Ta Keo, Banteay Kdei and Ta Prohmand. But the most enjoyable of all, was the cheering from the smiling village children who ran with us or stood on both sides of the road holding out their hands. I just slowed down and reach out to clap the hands of every child and "give them five". I was actually slowing down by doing so, but I did not mind at all, for that was such touching and enjoyable moment.

The route then passed through the monumental Victory Gate, entering the ancient royal city of Angkor Thom. It was just like meeting again some friends who I had just be acquainted with in the previous day : the 12 Towers, the Palace ruins, the Terrace of the Elephants, the Phimeanakas, and he Bayon Temple. As a result of the lack of training, I started to slow down further to a pace of 6min/km. "No pain, no gain". That was always true, especially for long distance running.

As I left Angkor Thom through the South Gate, I met with the crowd of tourists heading for the Angkor Thom. Cars lined up along the road, and I could see the tourist-carrying elephants rushing by along the path just beside the road. This was not something that I expected, but I could not blame anyone but myself - I was too slow. Most of the runners had already finished the race half an hour ago, and they certainly had not experienced such situation.

The finishing point was actually right next to the starting point. The last 1km was also running along the moat of the Angkor Wat. I was rather surprised to see some Japanese ladies cheering me by giving me a "Ganbadei" as I was approaching the finishing line. They must have mistaken me as a Japanese runner. Well, why disappointing them? I responded by "giving them five". And there they were, Anthony, Brian and Kenneth, who had been waiting so long for me. Sorry about that, brothers.

Anthony was very happy, since he had finished with a PB in spite of the exhausting sightseeing trip in previous day - the traditional Khmer massage did work! And me, finished with a PW as expected. But I did not mind at all. The important things was, I had had a most enjoyable race.

穿越千年的長跑 - 吳哥窟國際半馬拉松

與山友Anthony相識於山野之間,但經常碰面,卻是在長跑賽道上,皆因他熱愛越野跑運動之餘,也是業餘的半程馬拉松好手。十月份一次大陸登山野營活動中,閒聊時提及兩個月後的一項海外長跑賽事,即時引起了我的興趣。參與長跑運動已四年多,第一次參加海外的賽事,是一年前的北京國際馬拉松,也是唯一的一次,所以對海外的賽事,仍然有那種新鮮的感覺,不過最吸引的,還是今次的比賽地點--柬埔寨的世界遺產、世界七大奇蹟之一、有近千年歷史的吳哥窟。能在千年遺蹟中作賽,畢竟是十分難得的機會,得悉一班跑友將會組團赴柬參加,便立即託Anthony代為了解。

一個月過去了,依然沒有音訊,因為賽事可以在網上報名,所以打算在確定了機票之後才報名。香港和暹粒(吳哥窟所在地)的直航班機機位有限,訂票要比較轉接,亦由於人數的變動(最終成行的是4人-搞手Brian,Anthony,我及另一位山友、Anthony的越野跑拍檔Kenneth),機票遲遲未能確定,到機票訂妥時,賽事的網上報名已經截止了。幸好得搞手Brian的奔走,最後都可以成功報名。

半程馬拉松在12月17日舉行,因為每週只有星期一、三、五才有班機直航,我們在15日晚上已經到達了柬埔寨古都暹粒。16日趁空檔訪遊了吳哥王朝遺跡,順道視察了賽道,回來後雙腳竟然有點酸軟,幸好有高棉古法按摩的幫助,疲勞盡消。17日清晨5:40,天還未光,我們便乘坐預約好的嘟嘟車(Tuk Tuk,一種東南亞地區的三輪摩托車,暹粒的則由摩托車拖著一載客的兩輪拖卡)離開酒店,出發到吳哥窟。柬埔寨十二月份的氣候比較宜人,清晨氣溫攝氏23度,濕度百分之五十左右,進行長跑運動,算是十分舒服,我們乘著無遮無擋的Tuk Tuk在路上飛馳,還感覺有點冷呢,幸好帶上了風褸。

吳哥窟國際半程馬拉松,今年已經是第十一屆,由日本岡山市的非政府組織「金心」(Heart of Gold)發起,與柬埔寨奧委會共同舉辦。賽事特別之處,是參賽者中有很多是柬埔寨內戰時留下的地雷的受害者,賽事就是旨在向世人呼籲禁止地雷和關懷地雷受害者,收集的參賽費用,亦用來支援柬埔寨地雷受害者及開展青少年艾滋病預防活動。作為「金心」的愛心大使,日本奧運女子馬拉松獎牌運動員有森裕子亦有參賽。今年參賽人數為歷屆最多,共32個國家達2757人。

6時正到達了吳哥窟參道前的起點,那兒已經是人山人海,我們連熱身都未足,便要準備起步。半程馬拉松在6:30起步,因為起跑沒有定排位時區,陰錯陽差之下,我們4個都排到頭位去了,有幸和有森裕子並排起步,不過因為自己成績太差,不好意思阻礙其他跑手,便自動自覺地退到一邊,順便為Anthony他們拍起步照。

槍聲一響,大家紛紛越過起跑線,一輪紅日亦剛從吳哥窟後昇起,美極了,可惜大家都只顧向前衝,只有很少人留意到,發出一陣陣讚嘆聲。開首一段沿著護城河跑,林裡面的猴子都走出來了,坐在路邊草地看熱鬧。到了2.5公里轉回點,比我們遲15分鐘起步的輪椅組的健兒們都趕上來了,他們都是被地雷炸斷雙腿的柬埔寨人,坐著輪椅參加比賽。

自Nike十公里以後,因為身體不適,已有一個月完全沒有練過跑,所以今次是志在參與,打算只輕鬆完成便行了。那是一條近乎完美的賽道:全程平坦的柏油路、林蔭夾道、每2.5公里的水站,還有令人讚嘆的古跡不斷在眼前和兩邊出現。開首十公里,我還能保持5分鐘1公里的速度,沿著古老的城牆、經過荳蔻寺(Prasat Kravan) 和 塔高寺(Ta Keo)宏偉的遺跡、Banteay Kdei和塔普倫寺(Ta Prohm)莊嚴的大門,但最令人開心的,是沿途村莊的孩子們,他們或跟著跑一段,或站到路邊興奮地伸出手,用笑容鼓勵著參賽者,我亦放慢腳步,邊跑邊和站在路邊的孩子們擊掌。我是越跑越慢了,但卻完全不在乎,因為我很享受。


賽道接著穿過宏偉的勝利門(Victory Gate),進入了大吳哥城遺跡。城內的十二塔(Prasats Sour Prat)、皇宮遺址、象台、空中宮殿(Phimeanakas)、巴容寺(Bayon),都是昨天剛探訪完的古蹟,那是另一種感覺,猶如重見剛相識的朋友一般的感覺。跑步從來都是一分耕耘一分收獲的,疏於練習的結果,就是步速開始降至6分鐘1公里了。

因為跑得慢,由南門離開大吳哥城時,遊客們已開始湧進城了,路上大擺車龍,揹著遊客的大象在路旁穿梭。一面吸著廢氣,一面要留意避開路上的障礙,就如跑馬路一樣,有點不爽,不過都只能怪自己跑得慢,大部份的跑手都在半小時前衝線了,不會遇到這種情況。

終點就是起點的吳哥窟參道,臨衝線前一公里是沿著護城河跑,因為這一段是封了路,不用像之前般留心避車了。衝線前幾十公尺,竟然有幾位日本嬸嬸大聲為我「奸爸爹」,應該是錯把我當是同胞了(因為有很多日本人專程來參賽,香港跑手真是絕無僅有),不過我也照單全收,伸出手和她們擊掌。當然,還有在終點等我等到發呆的Anthony等眾人。

恭喜Anthony造出了他的PB(歷來最佳成績),前一天的奔波勞碌,仍可再創佳績,可能是與高棉古法按摩的神奇功效有關,哈哈。而我,就一如所料,造出了我的PW(歷來最差成績),不過不要緊,重要的是,這是我跑步以來最享受的一次半程馬拉松。




Sunday, December 24, 2006

《合唱俠》- 無伴奏合唱 Sregnis Singers - A cappella Ensemble

《合唱俠》- 無伴奏合唱

剛欣賞完一場精彩的聖誕音樂會,那是一場比較特別的音樂會--基本上沒有樂器,對,沒有樂器。應該是說,十把美妙的聲音,就是天賦的樂器,合奏出和諧悅耳的音樂。我說的是無伴奏合唱組合(A cappella Ensemble)《合唱俠 Sregnis Singers》的聖誕音樂會。

由於自己在大學時代也有參加過大學合唱團的關係,對多聲部合唱的音樂,比較有親切感,而參加合唱團後的第一次演出,曲目就包括了Dvorak 的無伴奏合唱 Songs of Nature。人的聲音本身就是一件美妙的樂器,不同的音色音域的唱詠聲配合起來,效果毫不遜色於一隊管弦樂團。近代的合唱音樂,多聲部的歌聲,加上整隊管弦樂團,氣勢磅礡,其實它們的始祖,就是無伴奏合唱(a cappella)。A cappella一詞為義大利文,原義是「教堂風格的合唱」,起源可追溯至中世紀歐洲的宗教聖樂。當時的教會音樂只以人聲清唱,有點似現在佛教僧尼的佛經吟唱,稱為讚歌Chants)或素歌(Plain Song,=
格列高利聖詠 Gregorian chant)。

素歌都是單聲部和自由節奏的,多聲部的無伴奏合唱音樂,要到公元第10世紀才出現,形式主要仍是以素歌為主旋律,再加上和聲聲部,稱為奧爾干農(Organum),之後發展出三、四部的奧爾干農(triplum,quadruplum)。直到15世紀文藝復興時代,無伴奏合唱才有另一番新景象,出現了出代表性的牧歌(Madrigal,歌詞內容多與嚮往田園生活有關)。牧歌並非聖樂,a cappella開始被廣義地理解為「無伴奏合唱」,不再是狹義的定義「聖樂」。17世紀後,西方樂器的發展迅速,作曲家轉向為小提琴、鋼琴等譜寫樂曲,19世紀管弦樂大盛,各類聲樂作品都有樂器伴奏,可以說是無伴奏合唱的消退期。

和諧的純人聲合唱,始終有其魅力,到了20世紀初,無伴奏合唱重新流行起來,1909年耶魯大學的Whiffenpoofs 成立,無伴奏合唱由美國開始,擴散至歐洲,以至世界各地。1963年成立的
Swingle Singers,以及1968年首演、來自劍橋大學英皇書院的King's Singers (英皇合唱團),成為了現代無伴奏合唱組合的經典,此後,美國各大學的無伴奏合唱組合紛紛出現。1983年,組合 The Flying Pickets 更憑《Only You》打入Billboard流行榜首位達5週之久。

成立於一九九四年、被日本「朝日放送」譽為「香港的Swingle Singers」的《合唱俠》,可以說是香港音樂界的異數。我最初接觸到他們的表演,是「學士合唱團」的音樂會,他們是合唱團的成員之一。得知原來合唱團中的精英,同時組成了小組合唱團,才開始留意他們的演出。除了每年的聖誕音樂會外,他們亦應邀作不定期的演出,例如香港繽紛冬日節、文化中心週末藝趣、各大購物中心的Road Show等等,主要是希望藉此向公眾介紹不同類型的小組合唱音樂,提高本港市民的音樂欣賞能力。如果碰巧有空,我都會到場欣賞,作為對他們熱心推廣音樂文化的支持。


無伴奏合唱組合在香港並不多見,除了另一著名的組合中文大學崇基學院的《姬聲雅士》(Gay Singers)外,好像沒有其他,也許其中一個原因,是無伴奏合唱對成員的要求甚高:沒有了樂器的幫助/遮醜,對成員音準控制方面要求更高;同時,無伴奏合唱對整體和諧度的要求也嚴格。另一方面,專為無伴奏合唱而寫的作品,數目有限,現成的改編樂譜也不多,成員需要自己編寫或改編適合多聲部合唱的樂譜。所以,無伴奏合唱絕對是對各成員的音樂造詣的大挑戰。組成《合唱俠》的十位青年歌手,原來每位都已有多年的合唱及演唱經驗,而且大部份是主修音樂,接受過正統的聲樂、器樂及作曲的訓練。各成員豐富和高水平的演唱經驗,加上對小組合唱的熱愛和不斷努力,他們今天的成績,絕不是僥倖。


為了更有效地向公眾推廣小組合唱音樂,和《姬聲雅士》一樣,《合唱俠》表演風格多變,經常令觀眾耳目一新,選唱的曲目不只是現成的聲樂作品,亦不限於古典音樂,而是包羅萬有,看他們過去多次的演出,有改編器樂作品、西方古典作品、中外藝術歌曲、音樂劇插曲、黑人靈歌、更有中西日韓流行曲等。今次的聖誕音樂會,還別開生面地包括了蒙古語歌曲《吉祥三寶》,詼諧的演出令觀眾捧腹大笑之餘,亦拍爛手掌。不過我最喜歡的,還是改編自史麥塔那(Smetana)的交響詩選段《莫爾德河》 (Die Moldau),十把聲音,把原管弦樂合奏洶湧磅礡的氣勢重現。

如果你也喜歡小組合唱音樂,不妨留意一下《合唱俠》下一次的演出,與他們分享無伴奏合唱的樂趣。


Rimsky-Korsakov: Flight of the Bumble Bee - 2004音樂會的演出片段

Friday, December 22, 2006

Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas

對很多人來說,聖誕節是個普天同慶的日子,是聖誕老人派送禮物、到商業區欣賞璀璨燈飾、出席大小派對和聖誕大餐的日子。在我到外國讀書之前,的確是這樣,因為不是教徒,聖誕節的宗教意義對我來說,感受不深,聖誕有假期,自然就是與朋友聯群結隊尋找歡樂的檔期。

中學會考後,到了愛爾蘭升學,那是一個虔誠的天主教國家,同學都回家過聖誕節,自己初到貴境,兼且一個人身在異地,沒有了喧鬧的大小派對,倒能真正細心體會傳統的聖誕節氣氛。那時開始接觸到一些 "Jingle Bells" "Joy to the World" 等例牌聖誕歌以外的聖誕音樂,其中一首最令我動容的,是 《Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas》。

多位著名殿堂級歌手都唱過這首歌,其中包括了芭芭拉史翠珊(Barbara Streisand)和法蘭仙納度拉(Frank Sinatra),最近期的,應該是James Taylor 2001年的版本。這原是一首美高梅音樂劇電影中的插曲,出現在1944年的《 Meet Me In St. Louis》其中一幕:即將要離鄉別井、面對不可預知的未來的茱迪嘉蘭(Judy Garland) 以感懷的聲調,向妹妹Tootie唱出這首歌...



Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas,
Let your heart be light
Next year, all our troubles will be out of sight

Have yourself a merry little Christmas

Make the yuletide gay
Next year all our troubles will be miles away

Once again as in olden days

Happy golden days of yore
Faithful friends who were near to us
Will be near to us once more

Someday soon we all will be together

If the fates allow.
Until then, we'll have to muddle through somehow
So have yourself a merry little Christmas now.



與一般的宣頌普世歡騰的聖誕歌曲不同,這首歌帶點愁緒,但又充滿祝福、鼓勵和希望,為失意的朋友帶來慰藉。給困難中的人們帶來安慰和信心,宣揚希望,不正就是聖誕節的真正意義嗎?

聖誕節的意義


聖誕節是什麼?「紀念耶穌基督降生的日子。」似乎很多人都懂得答。但是,大家是否真正懂得聖誕節的意義?

對於基督徒來說,聖誕節的意義是明確不過的,雖然有學者提出耶穌基督並非在新曆12月25日出生,但這不重要,大家只是希望藉著一個機會,來向人們宣揚新生的希望,給社會帶來和平的訊息,給困苦弱小者帶來安慰和信心。

只是現代人心目中,聖誕節就是聖誕老人、互相派送禮物、大小派對和聖誕大餐。聖誕節的街上一定要有璀璨燈飾,否則就會被解讀為經濟不景的現象。聖誕節是趁機悉心打扮、聯群結隊狂歡慶祝、開懷暢飲、酩酊大醉的時刻。對於商人來說,聖誕節是賺個盤滿砵滿的良機,難得假期,也是片商推出大堆頭電影的黃金期,只要拍得不太爛,觀眾都會性入場。聖誕節似乎充滿歡樂,名符其實的普天同慶。但是,真的是普天同慶嗎?

1984年的聖誕節快要來臨前,剛經歷過一場大旱災後的非洲埃塞俄比亞人,面臨餓死的威脅。英國流行音樂工作者在Bob Geldof的發起下,共同創作及演唱了一首歌,為這些非洲饑荒難民展開募款,這就是著名的《Do They Know It's Christmas? 他們知道現在是聖誕節嗎?》

 It's Christmas time, there's no need to be afraid
 At Christmas time, we let in light and we banish shade
 And in our world of plenty, we can spread a smile of joy
 Throw your arms around the world at Christmas time.

 But say a prayer, pray for the other ones
 At Christmas time, it's hard,
 but when you're having fun, there's a world outside your window,
 and it's a world of dread and fear 
 where the only water flowing is the bitter string of tears
 And the Christmas bells that ring there are the clanging chimes of doom
 Well tonight thank God it's them instead of you!

 And there won't be snow in Africa this Christmas time
 The greatest gift they'll get this year is life
 Where nothing ever grows, No rain or rivers flow
 Do they know it's Christmas time at all?

 Here's to you raise a glass for everyone
 Here's to them underneath that burning sun
 Do they know it's Christmas time at all?
 Feed the world, Let them know it's Christmas time again

 聖誕節已來臨,不需害怕
 在這聖誕時節,我們引接光明,驅走陰暗
 在我們豐足富裕的世界裡,展現歡樂的笑容
 在這聖誕時節,張開雙臂擁抱世界

 但請作個禱告,為別人禱告,在聖誕時節,並不容易
 但當你在尋歡作樂時,窗外是另一個世界
 一個憂懼與驚恐的世界
 那裡唯一的流水,是串串苦痛的淚水
 那裡響起的聖誕鐘聲,是死亡的喪鐘
 今晚得感謝上帝,受苦的是他們而非你

 今年的聖誕,非洲不下雪
 他們今年最好的禮物,就是能繼續活著
 那兒寸草不生,沒有雨水,河水不再流
 他們知道現在是聖誕節嗎?

 你正為大家舉杯祝酒
 他們正在那灼熱的太陽下受煎熬
 他們知道現在是聖誕節嗎?

 請救助這世界,讓他們重新感受到聖誕節


每年聖誕節,滿街滿巷都播放著那些留傳千古的聖誕應景歌曲,但出現在我腦海中的,總會是這首《Do They Know It's Christmas?》今年或許不再是埃塞俄比亞,但是前年南亞海嘯大災難中的受災者,很多仍處貧困邊緣,至今仍有逾百萬無家可歸;剛過去的菲律賓和越南風災,超級颱風「榴槤」造成嚴重傷亡,災民人數高達100萬。

希望大家在穿著新衣享用豐富的聖誕大餐時,同時記得在不太遠的國度裡,不少人連簡單的兩餐溫飽也不足;要珍惜眼前的一切,用心去關懷他人,關心世界上其他不幸的人。

祝大家有一個和平、喜悅和充滿愛心的聖誕節!


部份圖片:cedarfund.org, www.takungpao.com

Wednesday, December 20, 2006

深山含笑 - 冬日山中的白衣仙子 Maud's Michelia

深山含笑 - 冬日山中的白衣仙子

本港在冬日開放的野生花卉中,要選出最美麗的,深山含笑(Michelia maudiae,又稱莫氏含笑)肯定是其中一種。常綠的深山含笑,屬於本地稀有的樹木品種,在境內只在三處地方有發現的紀錄。每年的一月期間,整棵樹都會被大而雪白的花朵所覆蓋,中心鮮黃色的花藥,配以閃亮的深綠樹葉作背景,的確是一幅絕美的圖畫。 含笑屬的深山含笑,與園藝栽種的荷花玉蘭、紫玉蘭等是近親,同屬木蘭科的植物,是香港的特有品種,1900年在香港首次被發現。發現這個新品種的,是當時任職植物及林務署的S. T. Dunn,並以他妻子的名字莫氏(Maud)來命名。深山含笑是根據香港法例第96章《林務規例》受保護的品種。

自從Derek Kamp在他1985年出版的著名作品 "12 Hong Kong Walks" 中,詳述了深山含笑被發現時的生長地點後,不少植物愛好者都已曾慕名前往觀賞過這些美麗的樹木。書中是這樣描述的:「當滿樹冠的花朵盛放時,數英里範圍內都可以清楚地看得見,大東山山峰下的山坡,尤如披上了白色的婚紗」。
可惜書中所描述的景象,不知何故,近年已不再復見。然而,如果小心觀察,在大東山頂下望,仍然可以隱約見到在密林中的一小片白色花叢。不過在2001年1月的那一次尋訪中,亦只能在遠離書中所述位置的密林中,見到單獨一棵正在開花的株植。


Maud's Michelia - Snow-white Beauty of the Winter Mountain
The Maud's Michelia (Michelia maudiae), one of the most beautiful winter wild flowers in Hong Kong, is a rare native evergreen tree recorded at only 3 locations in the terrirories. The whole tree is covered by large white Magnolia-like blossoms in January, each with brilliantly yellow stamens at the centre at a background of glossy dark-green foliage.  This species of Michelia, closely related to the garden magnolias and unique to Hong Kong, was first discovered in the 1900's by S.T.Dunn, who was working at the Bontanical and Forestry Department and named the plant after his wife. Maud's Michelia is a protected species under Forestry Regulation Cap 96.

The location in which the speciment was discovered had been much publicized when it was described in 1985 by Derek Kamp in his famous book "12 Hong Kong Walks", and the beauty of the plant had been appreciated by many plant-lovers since. Unfortunately, the scene of "the hillsides below Sunset Peak take on a bridal look as the trees with their crown of blossoms stand out for miles around", as described by Kemp, has somehow disappeared in recent years for some reasons. However, watching carefully, one can still pick out the small white patches of their creamy blossoms from the summit of Sunset Peak. During a visit to the site in January 2001, only a single speciment in bloom was found hidden among the dense woodland near the summit, far away from the original site described by Kemp.

Friday, December 15, 2006

蘭香滿崗 - 淺說蘭花 Sweet Wild Orchid Scent – An Introduction


蘭香滿崗 - 淺說蘭花

開花植物之中,蘭花是廣為世人喜愛和傳頌的花卉之一。中文的園藝學書籍,把蘭花分為國蘭和洋蘭兩大類,國蘭所指的品種,多為具有香味的蕙蘭屬(Cymbidium spp.)的狹葉地生蘭,如春蘭、素心蘭、報歲蘭等。傳統上中國人獨愛國蘭,賞蘭重其氣質,愛其花之淡雅幽香,愛其葉之優雅形態。中國人欣賞蘭花,源遠流長,蘭花的採集、馴化與栽培,可上溯至二千四百年前的春秋時代,孔子更以蘭的特質比喻人的氣質品格:「芝蘭生幽谷,不以無人而不芳,君子修道立德,不為窮困而改節。」因此蘭花又被稱為「花中之君子」 。

國蘭以外,其他所有的蘭類,均統稱為「西洋蘭」或「洋蘭」,可見洋蘭種類之多和雜。洋蘭主要產地是熱帶亞洲、中南美洲等氣候高溫多濕地區,其中中南美洲擁有許多色彩艷麗、令人著迷的蘭花,特別是有「洋蘭之王」之稱的嘉多利亞蘭(Cattleya)。欣賞洋蘭時,重點在花:花的形、色、和大小。流行的栽培品種,主要包括嘉多利亞蘭、蝴蝶蘭(Phalaenopsis)、石斛蘭(Dendrobium)、拖鞋蘭(Paphiopedilum)、貝母蘭(Coelogyne)、萬代蘭(Vanda)和文心蘭(Oncidium)等。西洋蘭花的養殖始於英國,後傳入美國,再傳到日本。在英國的維多利亞時代,便有貴族供養園丁與蘭花獵人,遠赴重洋,冒著生命危險到世界各地尋找珍稀美麗的蘭花,移植到自己的莊園花園,用以向他人炫耀。近代蘭花愛好者流行追求擁有珍稀原生品種,很多原生蘭的採集者終日混跡山林,苦苦尋找原生蘭花的影蹤。

除了觀賞價值外,傳統中醫藥中,石斛蘭屬植物的莖具有清熱生津、滋陰補胃、明目、抗衰老、免疫調節等藥理作用, 野生的石斛蘭,更是名貴的中藥材。

現時世界上所有的野生蘭花,都受到生息地破壞的威脅;不少野生品種更因為其園藝或中藥價值,面臨被過度採集的命運,在野外已經近乎絕跡了。
(圖) 北海道礼文島特産的兜蘭/拖鞋蘭,屬日本的特定稀少植物、
    絶滅危惧IB類。5月-6月開花。
  Cypripedium marcanthum Sw. var. rebunense  

  Rebun Lady's Slipper 礼文敦盛草 レブンアツモリソウ
  Orchidaceae 蘭科


Sweet Wild Orchid Scent – An Introduction

Among the many flowering plants, the orchid family is one of the most favourite and praised. Orchids are traditionally divided into two groups by the Chinese horticulturists : the Chinese Orchids and the Foreign Orchids. The Chinese Orchids include mainly those sweet-scented terrestrial Cymbidium spp. with narrow leaves. The Chinese have a 2400-year-long history of appreciating, collecting and cultivating the Cymbidium. They love the sweet flower scent and the elegant leave shape of the Cymbidium orchids, and the human virtue they symbolizes. The famous Confucius once said, “Orchid grows in the shaded valley, keeps on releasing its sweet scent though there is no one around to praise it. Likewise, a man of noble character should show his virtue even when in poverty.” and hence the other name for the Cymbidium orchids, “Flowers with a noble character”.

Any orchids other than the Chinese ones are called the “Foreign Orchids”. Those are mainly the colourful species from the warm and humid areas of Tropical Asia, Central and South America, including the Cattleya, queen of the orchids. Unlike the Chinese orchids, foreign orchids are praised for their flowers, especially the shape, colour and size of the flower. The Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Dendrobium, Paphiopedilum, Coelogyne, Vanda and Oncidium are the most popular species. Cultivation of and passion for orchids in the western world started in England, then spreaded to American and Japan. Nobles of the Victorian England kept gardeners and orchid hunters under their service. Orchid hunters were sent oversea, risking their life searching for the beautiful exotic orchids around the world for their masters’ botanic gardens and estates. In recent years, orchid enthusiasts have turned their eyes on the exotic native species. Wild orchids collectors roam around the jungles day and night for the specimens.


Apart from the ornamental value, the wild specimen of the Dendrobium spp. of the Orchid Family is also a very valuable medical herb used in traditional Chinese medicine. It is an effective anti-inflammatory and fluids replenishing agent, and used as a Yin tonic which moistens the stomach and lungs. It is also used to improve eye-sight, postpone aging and regulate immune function.


Nowadays, wild orchids all over the world are under threats of the lost of their natural habitats. Many have been suffering from extensive illegal collection over the years due to its high ornamental and medical value, and became quite rare in the wild.

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

赤子心 看世界 See the World through the Eyes of a Child

赤子心 看世界

網友森哥的兒子進進就讀幼稚園,老師呼籲家長為學生搜集紙盒,作為手工材料,引導發揮小朋友的觀察和想像力之餘,又學習廢物利用。一星期後進進把製成品帶回家:幾個紙盒疊著平放,中央豎立起另一個長方紙盒,前面斜放著一件承載餅乾的包裝托盤,有點像座金字塔。作品究竟像什麼,森哥完全自看不出所以然,兒子的答案是「碼頭」。森哥的自然反應是「當堂啞了」,為免打擊兒子的自尊心和創意,亦不得不講善意的謊言,誇讚一下兒子。

看了作品的照片,發覺其實進進都頗有心思。我會聯想到那是舊天星碼頭,因為我看到中央聳立的鐘樓--那個豎立的長方紙盒。跟成人很不同,其實小朋友眼中的世界比較簡單,他們看事物,只會記住重點。我的姪兒三嵗時畫魚,照例都只畫一個橢圓圈,再在一邊加個三角形,因為他只想表達出他心目中的重點,就是魚圓滑流線型的身形,以及用來游泳的尾巴--那三角形。可能近日電視新聞中經常出現舊天星碼頭鐘樓的畫面,又或者老師給他們看的碼頭照片,就是舊天星碼頭,進進的意識中,鐘樓很自然就代表了碼頭,其他的都是枝節。能想到用包裝托盤做樓梯,亦看到進進都頗有心思,證明他已經觀察到樓梯與包裝托盤的共通點--都是一級一級的。

早前聽同事講了一件她在朋友家中探訪時見到的有趣事。她朋友有一個八九個月大的兒子,正在四腳爬爬、誓要探查遍家中每個角落的階段。小朋友在這個年紀,父母們都會四處巡視,注意排除家中一切容易撞傷孩子的危險角落,但往往又總有些「漏網之魚」。她到訪時,開門的是朋友的太太,而她朋友正在跟著兒子手腳並用的在地上爬行,又不時一臉好奇似的抬頭四處察看。她朋友笑著跟她說,他不是在跟兒子玩,而是在進行著一項非常任務--檢查家居安全,因為只有這樣四腳爬爬,才能從兒子的高度,看到一切潛在的危險角落。她朋友的說話,的確發人心省:要從孩子的角度看世界,才能明白孩子心。

其實,每個成年人都曾經是小孩,只是我們的「赤子之心」,是否已經遺落在某個塵封的角落?


進進的作品 - 碼頭 (原圖by ) (c)森之Blog

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引用網誌:「仔仔的作品 - 碼頭」 by



See the World through the Eyes of a Child

This is Chung's second year in kindergarten. Chung is the little boy of my blog-mate Sam. In order to spark the imagination and creativity of the children, the teacher had asked the parents to prepare some used paper boxes for the art class. A week later, Chung brought home the result of his own creation. It was made up of a pile of boxes, with an cuboid piece standing upright on the top at the middle, and a plastic biscuit packaging tray placed at an angle to the horizontal at the front. Sam had absolutely no idea what it was supposed to be until Chung told him that "it is a ferry pier, Dad". "Speechless with a wide-opening mouth" was Sam's immediate reaction, but he managed just in time to make up a white lie by praising the boy of being creative and smart, something very important in nurturing the boy's self-esteem and creative mind.

By looking at the picture of Chung's creation, I found that he was actually rather thoughtful. It made me think of the old Star Ferry Pier at Central, since I could see the central upright cuboid piece being the Clock Tower. Unlike the adults, children have a much simpler view of the world. They only see the main part(s) of each thing. When my nephew was three, his drawing of a fish was always an ellipse with a triangle on one side, high-lighting the two main physical features of a fish, the round and stream-line body with a triangular tail for swimming. It was possible that the recent frequent appearances of the Star Ferry Pier Clock Tower on the news or the pictures of that being shown by the teacher in the art class had impressed Chung so much that the idea of "Clock Tower = Ferry Pier" had rooted. Using the biscuit packaging tray to represent the steps in front of the pier showed Chung's ability to correlate the similarity between the two – both being step-shaped.

My colleague told me an interesting story about her recent visit to her friend's house. Her friend had an 8-week-old son, though still a hands-and-knees crawler, was in the mood of exploring every single corner of the house. Once the baby was on the move, parents would make special safety precautions around the house in order to make it baby-proofing. However, there would always be something that had been overlooked. When my colleague entered the house of her friend, he was actually crawling after his baby son on the floor, looking upwards and around from time to time like a curious baby. He was not playing with his son, as he said smilingly, but carrying out an important task - checking out all spots of potential dangers to a crawling baby in the house, and the best way to spot potential dangers is to get down on one's hands and knees and crawl around looking at the house from a baby's eye view. See the world through the eyes of a child, and that is the only way you can truly understand his/her mind.

After all, we all have been children, but where have your pure and innocent heart of a child gone? Left in some dusty and forgotten corner of our past, perhaps .



Tuesday, December 12, 2006

診症

診症

「醫生,我又來探望你了。」一推開診症室的門,我第一句就說。今天是兩週內第三次見醫生了。

兩個星期前開始感冒,見了醫生取了藥,休息了一天,感冒似乎痊癒了,但咳嗽反而嚴重了,到了失聲的地步,晚上一躺下來就咳不停,被迫要坐著睡。再去見醫生,醫生說給我處方一種「重炮咳水」。「重炮咳水」藥力都算強勁,晚上不用坐著睡了,但仍然是要到三天的藥水吃完了,咳嗽才完全停止。剛剛才止了咳,前天喉嚨又開始痛了,感覺上頭還有點微微發燙,星期天吹了點風,開始頭痛,「必利痛」也無效,心想,「慘了,恐怕是感冒未清,又再死灰復燃了。」

我把徵狀詳細報告給醫生,並提到過幾天就要出門去柬埔寨的暹粒,希望出門前先把身體調理好。「哦,吳哥窟是個好地方,融合了高棉古國佛教和印度教藝術的精華。」醫生是個藝術和歷史愛好者,單看診症室內幾排的入牆書架就知道──書架上超過千本書籍,沒有一本是關於醫療,全是藝術和歷史的書籍和畫冊。

因為擔心鼻腔有否發炎,我主動提到沒有流鼻水,但鼻腔還常感到有股腥味,腋窩及頸部的淋巴也有微腫和痛。

「是有點『火』。*」醫生忽然彈出了一個中醫名詞。我有點錯愕,但很快就恢復過來。醫生一向對中醫學頗有修為,診病時第一個動作,是捉起左手把脈,接著才用聽筒檢查呼吸心跳,而且間中還會說一兩句中醫斷症名詞。「黏膜充血也會感到有腥味的。」醫生忽然又轉回了西醫斷症。

「不知是否感冒的新變種,近日好多朋友都病了,而且都像我般拖好久才痊癒。」我向醫生試探著,求證一下我身體並不是特別的差。

「因為空氣實在是太差了,看來是世界末日近了。」醫生說。我又一時反應不過來了,因為類似的評論,平時都是我對別人說的多。「我是講認真的,這都是人類自己造成的。」醫生繼續說。唉,人人都知道情況嚴重,但似乎很少人認真地做點撥亂反正的實際行動。

「對對,溫室效應令氣候劇變,就像電影『明日之後』描述的一樣。」我終於可以接上嘴。「是剛上影的電影嗎?」醫生可能真的是太忙,有好幾年沒入過電影院了。「啊,不是,是兩年前的電影了,不過最近也有一套類似題材的環保紀錄片《絕望真相》。」我嘗試打圓場。「好吧,給你三日藥。」醫生已經終止了診症。外面還有十多個病人在等候,我耽誤了醫生這麼久,他們一定正在咒罵我。

配藥室的姑娘把藥遞給我,我循例看看藥名:Ambroxol HCl 30mg、Dexmin、Reutoo Syrup,都是鼻敏感、傷風、化痰止咳的藥。咦,是否我對醫生詳述徵狀時說錯了些什麼呢?不過我不是專業,還是吃完了藥看看怎樣再算吧。


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* 頸部淋巴脹大,從中醫角度來看,可能是興核──尤其是在頸部出現,單粒、起病急、少許痛楚,與口腔、咽喉感染有關,通常可找到病灶,例如﹕喉炎、牙周炎等令淋巴受感染而起,坊間亦俗稱痰火核。

Tuesday, December 05, 2006

天水‧圍城


近年已不大留意流行音樂的發展,但在公共交通工具上媒體資訊爆棚的今天,本地樂壇的消息,不多不少也會被迫知道一些皮毛,知道李克勤最新專輯的主打歌《天水‧圍城》,引起了一些爭議和討論。李克勤是一個我比較欣賞的歌手,林夕填的詞也一向有水準,引起議論的,正是這首歌的詞。

作品的標題,不難令人想到「天水圍」和「圍城」,歌詞中亦頗明顯地提出這個被隔離的「圍城」內新移民的無奈、貧窮、人口擠迫和居住環境狹窄的問題,昂貴交通費令居民失去了平等的區外就業機會、只能在「圍城」內活動等等的現象;並質疑社會上人情冷淡,以及「策劃這寸地尺土」者的失敗。

天水圍這個香港新界西北的衛星城市,一般被視作新移民、綜緩、家庭問題的代名詞、傳媒筆下的悲情城市,近年多宗家庭倫常慘劇,更加引起社會關注。社區內人口密度高、失業率高、綜援人口比例高、單親家庭比例高、家庭暴力和青少年問題數字高,而謀生能力及教育程度卻偏低,成了所謂「五高兩低」的標籤。我有朋友在區內當教師和外展社工,他們每天正常工作的時間,比其他任何一個社區的同行都要長得多,為的是希望可以盡力幫助到區內的學生和年青人。

香港的流行樂曲,一向都被人覺得只識風花雪月、情情塔塔,甚少認真關心和反映現實社會的問題。許氏兄弟早期嬉笑怒罵的諷刺時弊歌曲、「達明一派」的《天問》、《十個救火的少年》一類的作品,始終不多。林夕過去為不少情歌填的詞都很美,今次跳出這個框架,嘗試探討天水圍的社區問題。

看網上和媒體上的爭論,大家對這首歌的解讀,似乎南轅北轍,因此反應亦各走極端,讚與彈雙方各有見解。例如「圍住了冰雹,圍住了刻薄,圍住了爭吵的配樂」,冰雹和刻薄,有人認為是代表社會上人情冷淡,以旁觀者的心態關注報章上家庭倫常悲劇的報導,其實心裡在暗自慶幸自己不是住在天水圍;但有人卻說歌詞是誹謗居民都是刻薄的人,有天水圍業主甚至覺得是在唱衰天水圍,令區內樓價下跌,要求賠償。

有人認為能引起社會關注天水圍社區的問題是好事,可以給政府加速增撥資源解決問題的壓力。但是,也有人覺得與其他新市鎮比較(例如有同樣問題的東涌),天水圍並不算差,大眾越是關注它,住在裡面的人的「五高二低」標籤效應就越明顯,導致一個身份認同危機-天水圍人要逃避或遮掩自己身份,以免被看低,所謂「關注」,實質是在別人傷口上灑鹽,對改善社區並沒有實質幫助。

藝術家創作,好多時候只追求自我的表達,而不一定要欣賞者清楚明白他內心所想,故意或不經意地,留下空間讓接收者可以任意詮釋。林夕填此詞的目的,是否希望藉此曲引發更多人關注天水圍此社區的問題?也許他只想以創作反映一個居於偏遠社區的新移民需要面對困境的現實,並無意引起任何爭論。但無論原意如何,他已經打開了潘多拉的盒子,結果是好是壞,也不是他可以控制的了。

當大家正在專心咀嚼歌詞的負面描述時,希望也能留意到林夕最後兩句中的積極意義:「圍住了的國度,圍住了的血路,圍住了他都肯照做;牆沒有給拆掉,城沒有給棄掉,牆令到他攀登進步」-把困難當作磨練,在困境中不言放棄,繼續自強不息。


附錄:原曲歌詞 ©環球唱片


《天水‧圍城》   曲:Edmond Tsang  詞:林夕  唱:李克勤

圍住了的血汗 圍住了的跌宕 圍住了當初的厚望
圍住了的駭浪 圍住了的症狀 圍住了才易碰撞
他的一對父母 來又往 跨鄉過岸 才住這麼一角 越來越惡


圍住了冰雹 圍住了刻薄 圍住了爭吵的配樂
圍住了升學 圍住了收穫 圍住了便了解何謂罪惡
自成一國 但見他 找尋快樂
然後卻 越來越渴 越來越覺 沒能力去闖出沙漠


*誰策劃這寸地尺土 人擠逼中便容易退步
 他 親身真正感到 尺地寸金
 人便會無餘地平和獨舞  要見步行步 無車票又怎去覓去路
 赤地太濕 這地球沒芳草  文明繁盛有甚麼好
 (仍然留在故地多好)*


圍住了可向下 圍住了可向上 圍住了都可找對象
圍住了可以做 同伴裡的偶像 圍住了沒電腦可思想

氣候太涼 像殘酷得天生等天養
怨恨 暴燥 壓抑 唯有 記住 人靜便心涼


願國寶 領會到 沒看倌 仍獨舞
唯願他 能跟相戀的共同上路


誰憑權力照料 這寸地尺土 難為他不管平日惡耗
他 親身感覺得到 尺地寸金
人便會無餘地平和獨舞 要見步行步 無車票又怎去覓去路
赤地太濕 這地球沒芳草 全憑勤力上路


圍住了的國度 圍住了的血路 圍住了他都肯照做
牆沒有給拆掉 城沒有給棄掉 牆令到他攀登進步


放生-作孽還是積德?(下)

今年9月有市民向漁農自然護理署報告,發現沙田城門河上有一隻殼上清晰鑿刻著「放生」二字的綠海龜奄奄一息地在漂浮。雖然經過獸醫施救,但由於多個器官嚴重感染,海龜最終要人道毀滅。最致命的傷害,原來就是龜殼上鑿刻「放生」的疤痕,鑿刻位置正正在海龜肺部附近,細菌從殼上裂痕入侵造成感染,嚴重傷害肺部功能。

記得五年前本地海關截獲到近萬隻經香港走私偷運的野生龜隻,轉交了給對拯救野生動物比較有經驗的嘉道理農場處理。據幫忙的義工朋友反映,當時大部份龜隻的健康都很差,長時間缺水兼有病,且飢寒交迫,活的和已死的大小龜隻堆疊在一起,情況可以用”慘不忍睹”來形容。雖然義工們日以繼夜地努力搶救,也只能救回部份。當時嘉道理農場所能做的,是盡快把死了的、仍生存但已很難救活的、跟可以救活的龜隻先分隔開,為活存的龜隻餵水保暖,然後等待運到美國的龜類拯救中心(因為他們才有足夠的技術和資源確保龜隻能康復),護養至龜隻恢復健康後,才運送回到原生地放生。這也是我心目中真正的「放生積德」。

這次拯救龜隻行動中所需的人力物力和專業知識,一般人的確難以獨力辦得到,但是,只要是在拯救過程中有份幫忙的人,不論是親身到嘉道理農場出力幫手搬龜餵龜的義工,還是通過各種渠道奔走發消息呼籲大家援手的朋友,以至提供免費專機運送龜隻的航空公司負責人,都是積了功德。這一群值得敬佩的善心人當中,也包括了幾位我認識的朋友,他們都並非佛教徒,只是本著一顆熱愛生命的心,從另一個角度和途徑實踐「眾生平等」的宏旨。

所以,不需要焚香,不一定要唸經做法事,只要是有一顆愛惜生命的善心,在自已能力範圍內盡力拯救生命,就是一種功德。

Monday, December 04, 2006

跟寂寞交朋友

香港學生到海外留學,已經是平常不過的事。有的因為親人移民外國,因利成便,雖然身在異地,仍然有人貼身照顧,當地華人僑民也多,不愁交不到同聲同氣的朋友;但亦有不少孤身負笈海外的,到一個完全陌生的地方,沒有一個認識的人,因為文化背景的差異,交不到可以溝通的朋友,寂寞與苦悶之情,可以想像。不過既然選擇了這條路,又花了大筆金錢,不適應也得適應,慢慢學習「跟寂寞交朋友」。曾經留學日本、剛出版了他留日生涯回憶錄《度日娛/愚年》的網友Alan(覃國樑),就談論過如何跟寂寞交朋友。

自己也曾是留學生,完全明白留學生孤身一個面對陌生環境的感受,但我的遭遇有些不同。可能是性格關係,我可以很享受一個人獨處的時間。那時候我自己一個人租一間房住,每天晚上都可以自己靜靜地聽一個小時CD才睡,假日遇著好天氣,又獨自騎自行車四處去,可惜那時數碼相機仍未流行,否則我一定更享受這樣的自行車漫行獵影。

畢業後回到香港,私人的空間沒有了,所以我十分珍惜假日可以獨處的時間,一個人去登登山、游游水、逛逛博物館,自得其樂。大家一定以為我是個很孤僻的人,認識我的朋友就知道完全不是這回事。我也很享受與朋友一起的時光,但一個人總不能整天與朋友嘻嘻哈哈地過,當我需要休息,需要處理自己的事情的時候,我就不想分心。事實上我有太多積壓的私事未了:做了多年都仍未完成的網頁、多年以來未寫的遊記、幾個月拍下的數碼相片還未下載到電腦硬盤、要周未前趕起校友會通訊的排版,近月還開始了寫網誌… 太多的要完成,太少的時間了,你說我還有時間寂寞嗎?

所以,其實我沒有跟寂寞交朋友,因為它根本接近不到我。


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Sunday, December 03, 2006

放生-作孽還是積德?(上)

雖然並非佛教徒,但就十分欣賞佛家的平和,亦認同很多佛學的哲理與處世之道。許多宗教都會導人向善,手法亦各不同,感覺上佛家導人向善的方法令人舒服,如在說理,沒有強迫,就算你不信佛,也會同意他們的很多觀點。其中「眾生平等」、「免作殺孽」的教化,跟愛護大自然的觀點就頗有同工異曲之妙。

去年初某天到新娘潭拍攝,在湖邊看見一大群非本地野生品種的同種小鳥在聚集,牠們不太怕人,遊人要走到很近距離牠們才會飛走,但轉眼又回到原地啄食有人刻意留下的雀栗;垃圾箱旁有大堆棄置的鳥籠,有幾隻小鳥還賴在打開了門的籠中不肯走;路旁邊還有燒完了的香。很明顯地,早前有人舉行了放生的法事活動。

那天天氣頗冷,有數十隻被放生的小鳥經已僵直地死在路邊,應該是抵受不了低溫而凍死了,其他的小鳥的命運也不樂觀,習慣了籠中生活的籠鳥,警覺性低,又無求生能力,在野外嚴冬的惡劣環境中,不是很快凍死餓死,就是成為其他動物的點心。

我即時的感覺是:罪過!罪過!

一向都反對這一類形式的放生。從一個環境保護的角度看,在野外放生一些外來的品種,很多時候是直接地破壞了當地的生態,因為外來的品種可能兇猛兼生命力強,往往令原本的野生品種滅絕。在本地溪澗放生的巴西龜,就是典型例子。另一方面,把一個品種帶到牠們無法適應的地方放生,無疑是讓牠們去送死。再者,為了要有動物供人放生,無辜的野生動物往往會被人捕捉,運到市場供放生的的善信購買,在台灣就有佛堂視為生意經營。過程中動物受傷、受驚、甚至死亡。如此一來,放生的善信不但沒有「積功德」,反而是在間接地作孽。 港台兩地向來都有許多佛教徒為稟承「眾生平等,戒殺生」的宏旨,到市場買小動物來放生積福。曾到泰國佛寺參拜的朋友都知道,佛寺周圍有許多專門兜售雀鳥、魚和龜的攤販,專供人放生來積功德。泰國一位在帕南瓊安寺任副主持的高僧比巴德瓦拉博法師就曾在《曼谷郵報》中公開呼籲,購買動物放生的「積功德」行為,其實是作孽,因為此舉吸引許多小販專門兜售「放生動物」,待人放生後馬上捉回再賣,令小動物苦上加苦。

不少人信奉宗教,往往只是注重形式,而忽略了儀式背後的智慧和實質意義,認為做了某種儀式就等於種了善果,才會盲目地「放生積德」。僅有為善之心,但缺乏了判辨是非和追尋真理的智慧,就容易有「好心做壞事」的事情發生。下一次打算參加野外放生活動時,大家請再想一想,這種方式是否真的在行善?

不過話分兩頭,當大家在街上見到有野生動物被人當作野味或寵物出售,如果能買下來,在確保動物健康的狀態下送到回原生地放生,我覺得就是積功德。如果能力做不到,又或者動物是屬瀕危品種,買下來之後交給有關單位(如嘉道理農場,漁護署等),也是比較好的做法之一。

懷緬

有沒有試過,在一處從未到過的地方,忽然有一種很熟悉的感覺?勾起你一些久違了的回憶?

雖然吃不得辣,但一向很喜歡酸辣湯,到上海館吃飯,例必要試一試他們的酸辣湯,一邊流鼻水一邊吃(我一吃辣,就會鼻水流過不停)。可惜很多上海館的酸辣湯,不是太酸就是太辣,要不然就偷工減料,應有的材料沒有放齊。不過酸辣湯除了浙醋和辣椒油外,其實並沒有既定的材料;酸辣的比重,也是看師傅的喜好;而我所喜愛的酸辣湯,甚至可能與「正宗」的相差甚遠。

對酸辣湯的執著,也許與兒時經驗有關。小時候家境不算富裕,除了在重大喜慶日子,例如長輩生日、有親友自遠方來等等,一家人很少外出上酒家館子吃飯。媽媽有時需要星期日上午回公司加班,碰巧爸爸也要加班的話,便會把我帶上,我亦會自己一個乖乖地坐在公司大堂等媽媽下班。其中一次加班時間長了,老闆決定請吃午飯,我適逢其會,亦拉衫尾跟了去白吃。媽媽的老闆是上海人,午飯到了灣仔一間著名的京滬菜館,那是我第一次嘗上海菜。分菜的伙計可能忘了小孩不應吃辣,分了一碗酸辣湯放在我面前。雖然不習慣辣,嘗第一口時簡直要立刻吐出來,但因為味道確實不錯,便忍著辣一口一口地吃,媽媽發覺時,我已經吃了半碗。自此之後,我便知道我原來也「吃得一點點辣」-雖然那碗酸辣湯其實並不算辣,否則我一個從不吃辣的小孩如何吞得下去。

第一次的印象總是最深刻的,尤其是美好的印象,於對酸辣湯的要求,就很自然地以那一次為標準:不要太辣,要有肉絲、竹筍絲、蛋絲、豆腐絲、豬肚絲、鴨/雞紅絲、豬皮、木耳絲、海參絲、香菇絲。灣仔那間京滬菜館,早已結束了,尋尋覓覓,終於在西環一間上海小食店,找到了我記憶中的酸辣湯。因為小食店舖面積不大,蒸包煎鍋貼的爐灶佔了門口大部分位置,舖後面放了冷藏櫃和洗滌水盆,只餘中間空位放了幾張摺檯摺凳,而且經常坐滿了顧客,所以每次光顧,我都只會外賣。今天午飯時經過,忽然心血來潮,走了進去坐下。

原來店舖面積比想像中大,原本屬於廚房的部份,中央也放了張長摺檯。坐了下來,背後就是一排的冷藏櫃,對面是一盤盤搓好了可以隨時入蒸籠的包子,左手邊盡頭便是炮製上海粗炒的爐灶。換了別人,在這樣的環境進食,可能會不習慣,不過我卻反而很安心,因為能這樣的把廚房開放,店主固然是礙於地方不足而又想多做點生意,但同時對自己店舖的食物衛生程度,亦一定很有信心,不怕向顧客公開展示食物是如何炮製的,而且事實上廚房衛生程度亦不錯,地板也沒有濕漉漉油膩膩的感覺。在這樣的環境下,吃著酸辣湯和菜肉餛飩,忽然有一種很熟悉的感覺。

到外國升學之前,一直在家與父母同住,生活上一切都有媽媽照顧周到,也從來沒有工作的經驗。留學時才第一次打工,做兼職賺取生活費,希望減輕家中負擔。因為拿學生簽證不能受聘工作,只有華僑肯偷偷聘用,周未在華人經營的餐館做廚房雜工。對於從來沒有工作經驗、手無縛雞之力、連家務也少碰的的我,廚房雜工絕對是一個重大考驗。由起初的笨手笨腳、被老闆用粗言責罵,到後來變得熟手利落、但應付功課之餘周未仍要拖著疲乏的身軀工作至深夜,都不是甚麼美好的回憶。今天坐在食店廚房中,被喚起的那種熟悉而帶點回味的感覺,竟然是那段辛苦的日子。


那段日子雖然辛苦,但卻是我快速成長的日子,學懂獨立、學懂苦中作樂、學懂自信,最重要的是,學懂做人要有希望,才可以有動力面對眼前的困境。人不單會懷緬美好的往昔,對於那些雖然不太美好、但能令自己感到自豪、自我肯定的經歷,一樣終身難忘。

Thursday, November 30, 2006

終於病倒了。

朋友心目中的鐵人,終於也病倒了。

或許只有病了,才有機會真正停下來歇一歇。

不知是藥物的作用,還是真的倦了,對著面前的一齊,忽然什麼興趣都沒有了,只想睡,把過去多年的負債補回來。

朦朧中一直在發夢,多麼荒誕和不合邏輯的夢。記憶中好像很久沒有發過夢,平時累得一倒頭便熟睡了,哪有時間發什麼夢。大昏迷的狀態下,發了什麼夢也不會記得了吧。

人生苦短,又有那麼多想做的事,怎可以慢下來?

或許真的只有病了,才有機會真正停下來歇一歇,但我不想。

Wednesday, November 29, 2006

逃避


喜歡旅行,是為了増廣見聞,還是還有其他?
一向很喜歡旅行,長途旅行不能經常去,短程旅行也不放過,要不然,一天半天,到郊外走走也好。旅行的好處,是可以把現實的煩惱暫且放低,躲進一個看似心無牽掛的空間,換來一刻喘息的時光。

手上有工作未完成,家中有問題未解決,答應了給朋友的相片還未整理,搬了屋兩年多,仍是亂七八糟...管他呢,拿起背囊就往外走。忽然覺得,自己其實在逃避,但問題不會自動消失,要面對的始終要面對。回到家中,勞累之餘,賬單還是要付,一大堆問題仍在等你,而且像在借高利貸,利滾利,利疊利。

江山易改,品性難移,又要收拾行囊了...

Monday, November 27, 2006

知床旅情(四)-旅舍篇


知床旅情(四)-旅舍篇

宇登呂是知床半島西岸最北的市鎮,開往知床半島國立公園內景點的巴士,以這裡為起點。在七八月期間,巴士會開住道路的盡頭、硫磺山腳下的知床大橋,半島北端的知床岬地區,只能靠步行方可到達。我到訪知床,時值六月,巴士只作有限度行駛,除班次疏落外,路線更縮短至知床大橋以南12公里的知床五湖。由斜里火車站到宇登呂以北的地區,中途要在宇登呂轉車。

知床半島大部份地區早已成為國立公園,2005年更被指定為世界自然遺產,由於需要保存這個地區的原始自然美,宇登呂溫泉以北的地區,只有數目非常有限的住宿地方,如果希望在知床半島的心臟地帶留宿,岩尾別的青年旅舍絕對是個不作他想的選擇。

岩尾別的青年旅舍,是日本及國際青年旅舍協會成員之一,地處岩尾別川下游的森林邊緣,接近面向鄂霍次克海的岩尾別海岸,每日只有班次稀疏的巴士經過,是一個遠離世俗煩擾的世外桃源。岩尾別是知床半島野生蝦夷鹿冬季的繁殖地,青年旅舍門前不難見到蝦夷鹿在悠閒地吃草。青年旅舍是知床半島一帶各種野外活動的基地,羅臼岳的登山口,就在附近的岩尾別溫泉,夏天有定期出發的登山小組及連峰縱走加野營的活動;附設的「知床自然體驗學校」,有導師帶領認識知床的自然生態。舍監關口均先生,在知床是有名的獨木舟教練,旅舍亦順理成章地成為參加知床海岸海上獨木舟活動的中心。

參觀完雙美瀑布,趕上最後一班巴士,到達岩尾別時剛好下午四時半。湍急的岩尾別川岸邊,一座白色木造小屋,就是今天的目的地青年旅舍。事前已知道舍監及工作人員均不懂英語,推開大門,拿出紙筆正準備用書寫漢字溝通時,接待處的年青人用英語跟我說話。這位東京來的年青人叫山本直洋,是一位攝影師,因為熱愛知床的自然美,特意跑來青年旅舍當暑期工,幫忙接待外國遊客之餘,亦趁機會深入體驗知床的大自然。知床半島成了世界自然遺產後,相信會有更多歐美背囊客慕名而來,主要接待自助旅行人仕的青年旅舍,的確需要有能講英語的員工。因為直洋的幫忙,我亦因此有機會親自體驗一些本來只能讓懂日語人仕參加的活動。

旅舍是方圓十公里內唯一的建築物,為方便入住者,亦提供膳食。晚餐是我們香港人熟悉的日本定食模式,當然亦少不了當地時令特產的三文魚卵飯(いくら丼)。第一晚入住,晚飯時赫然見到餐桌上擺放了一隻北海道產的巨型阿拉斯加帝王蟹,原來有一位入住的日本會員剛在宇登呂漁港買了海鮮,晚飯時與大家分享。同檯吃飯的只有我一個不是日本人,但大家席間交談時,亦沒有忘了我這個「外人」,以十分有限的英語與我交流。因為不是旺季,原本住4人的房間,只有我和另一位日本青年入住,大家亦以有限的英語交流知床地區的情報,晚上還相約了一起到戶外觀星。

不是所有人都習慣入住青年旅舍時要跟陌生人同檯吃飯、共用房間的住宿形式,但這種形式,正正是我們與來自不同地方的旅客互相交流的好機會。

分享阿拉斯加帝王蟹 (タラバガニ)

今天晚餐: 鮭魚卵飯(いくら丼,三文魚籽飯)

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

雷雨在深秋


「立冬」早己過,今天已是農曆二十四節氣中「小雪」的日子,太陽到達黃經240度。雖然香港地處亞熱帶,十一月下旬,也理應是深秋時分,但氣溫還是如夏末初秋。今年的十月異常溫暖,平均氣溫高達26.4度,而平均每日最低氣溫是24.7度,兩者皆平了23年前所創的最高紀錄。昨天午飯過後,天昏地暗,竟然還如盛夏般下起大雷雨,雷電交加達半小時以上,超過100毫米的雨量,令天文台發出黃雨暴雨警,成為歷來首次在11月發出的黃雨暴雨警告。到了夜深,依然不時聽到雷聲隆隆,根據天文台的預報,狂風雷暴還會持續一天。真不敢相信,原來冬天已經快到了。

近年不斷出現的天氣反常,幾乎已經被視為正常。不同季節的野花同時盛開,候鳥的遷徙時間表也打亂了;一些地方酷熱大旱,另一邊廂卻因暴雨令洪水泛濫,甚至狂風暴雪。今年澳洲中部夏天酷熱非常,高溫乾燥,但東南部的維多利亞州,卻在夏天下雪了,令人不禁想起電影《明日之後》裡的情節...我們的地球很明顯發生了問題,但是到底人們要到什麼時候才會正視?

Friday, November 17, 2006

He Ain't Heavy, He's My Brother


He Ain't Heavy, He's My Brother

因為要通宵工作,夜深人靜,我戴上了耳機,放一張節奏比較慢的舊歌CD,一面聽一面做。耳機傳來一首The Hollies的70年代歌曲,歌聲在口琴伴奏聲中響起...  


 The road is long, With many a winding turn 
 That leads us to who knows where, Who knows where 
 But I'm strong, Strong enough to carry him 
 He ain't heavy, he's my brother  

 So on we go, His welfare is of my concern 
 No burden is he to bear, We'll get there 
 For I know, He would not encumber me 
 He ain't heavy, he's my brother  

  人生的道路漫長,有著太多的曲折蜿蜒  
  前路茫茫,不知何處是終點  
  但是我氣力充沛,強得足以揹負他上路  
  他並非我負累,他是我兄弟
 
  就這樣我們繼續向前,我在乎的是他的福祉  
  他根本不算是重擔,我們最終會到達目的地  
  因為我知道,他不會牽絆住我  
  他並非我負累,他是我兄弟…

好多年前有一個某大名牌電腦的電視廣告,畫面上只見一群大象在一片起伏的黃沙中前進。一隻落單的小象,因筋疲力盡,無法攀上沙丘頂,一隻大象趕來到牠身後,用鼻子把牠往上推,小象終於上了沙丘頂,追上象群繼續上路.....背景的音樂,是口琴聲中的"He ain't heavy, he's my brother"-「他並非負累,他是我兄弟」。

當年我看這個廣告時,每次歌聲響起,心裡都不期然一陣悸動。今晚重聽這首歌,那種感覺依然。 這歌詞中的名句,據說是源自1924年美國一本關懷兒童團體的雜誌上的一篇專欄文章,文章描述一個身材瘦弱的小男孩,揹負著他的弟弟,吃力地橫過馬路走向公園。對於路人的關心,他只微笑著回答"He ain't heavy, he's my brother"。40年代美國關注兒童機構Boys Town創辦人費納根神父(Father Edward J. Flanagan)為了建立一個機構來收容和關懷社會上遭到遺棄的孩童,努力募捐,這些原本非親 非故 的孩童,在他心目中都是他的親弟妹, “He ain't heavy” 亦是他常掛在口邊的名言。

我是家中的老大,比二弟長兩歲,但幼弟與我年紀卻相差了整整十年。幼弟剛入學唸幼兒班時,家中環境並不富裕,父母都要外出工作,每天放學後,就由我負責到幼兒院接他回家。每次走到那長長的樓級前時,幼弟都一定嚷著要我抱。雖然我已經升上中三,但自小矮細瘦弱,幼弟又屬於特別快高長大一類,抱著他走下長長的樓級,其實都頗為吃力,但我卻樂此不疲,每天重覆著。也許呵護年幼弟妹,就是每個做大哥大姐的天性吧。

早年本地大學位不足,父母克勤節儉地為我們兄弟儲起了一點教育基金,希望我們畢業後能繼續海外升學。一般收入的家庭,供一個兒子留學已經很吃力,海外升學的機會,通常都會落在幼子身上,長子只有提早工作、幫補家庭的份兒。我的父母持著「每個兒子都平等」的態度,我先畢業就我先放洋,弟弟畢業是幾年後的事,到時候也應該可以有足夠能力應付。但事實上由於種種原因,幾兄弟中到了外國留學的,只有我一個,主要是本地多了大學學位,而我的弟弟們天資都比我好得多,可以從容地考上本地大學。我在外國留學的幾年,正是我幼弟成長的關鍵時期,到現在我都一直很遺憾,我不能在他身邊盡長兄的責任。二弟性格比較內向古肅,對幼弟只會嚴厲管束而不擅於循循善誘,現在幼弟不擅處理人際關係和帶點反叛的性格,恐怕與此不無關係。我經常在想,如果我沒有去留學,情況會否完全不同。


畢業後一直只能找到合約工作,幼弟對於自己現在的前景,有點茫茫然。父母都頗擔心,卻苦無方法溝通,因為幼弟唯一肯溝通的對象,就只有我。我真的很想對他說,有大哥在,不要緊的。

當我再次聽到這首歌時,腦海中不期然又浮現出小時候抱著幼弟走下下那長長的樓級時的情景…

  It's so long long road from there is no return 
  While we're on the way together why not share 
  And the load doesn't weigh me down at all 
  He ain't heavy, he's my brother.

  漫漫長路, 只能前進,沒有回頭 
  既然都在同一條路上,應該甘苦與共  
  這肩膀上的責任,一點也不令我感到疲累  
  他並非我負累,他是我兄弟。


Wednesday, November 15, 2006

知床旅情(三)-雙瀑篇 A Journey to Shiretoko (3)-Twin Falls

知床旅情(三)-雙瀑篇

知床半島的天氣變化得很快,本來還有點陽光,轉眼便烏雲密佈,颳起大風,在斜里轉乘巴士到青年旅舍時,還開始下起大雨來。六月初的北海道其實仍然頗冷,不單止高地上積雪未融,就算在海平面的高度,颳起風時,仍能感受到一陣陣寒意。

差不多整個知床半島都是國家公園的範圍,部份道路有車輛管制,行走的巴士也不多,七八月以外的非旅遊旺季,班次更是稀疏。青年旅舍在岩尾別川下游、知床半島的中央部份,每日只有班次稀疏的巴士經過。半島沿岸大都是高聳的懸崖,知床連峰的溪流注入大海前,在崖壁上形成無數大大小小的瀑布,是名符其實的山海飛瀑景觀。計劃中是乘巴士往青年旅舍時在中途下車,參觀其中一處著名的山海瀑布「オシンコシンの滝」,再乘一小時後最後的一班巴士到青年旅舍。巴士在寒風冷雨中行駛,正在思量著是否依然按計劃中途下車,車窗前忽然現出一道壯闊的瀑布,立即毫不猶疑地按響了停車鈴。

瀑布就在路邊不遠處,可能不是旅遊旺季,加上天氣關係,遊客不多。旅遊車送來了的一批日本遊客,都湧到紀念品店裡去了。我不打算光顧,無謂阻礙了別人做生意,沒有進內。站在店外的屋簷下哆嗦著,陪伴我避雨的只有店主養的肥貓,也許牠也嫌店內太擠擁,走出來透透氣吧。終於等到雨勢稍停,幾個箭步就衝上了泥濘滿佈的步道,直奔瀑前。

落差50米的「オシンコシンの滝」是知床八景之一、日本百大名瀑之一,又稱「双美の滝」 (雙美瀑布),亦稱夫妻瀑布,原因是瀑布由兩道平行的瀑水組成。雨後的瀑布,更為壯觀,不單只瀑前揚起陣陣氤氳,原本並排的雙子瀑,已變成上半的三瀑和下半連成一幅的瀑水,就像一位在日本傳統「神前式」婚禮上的新娘,穿上潔白絲綢花嫁禮服「白無垢」,拖著裙擺緩步踏上神壇。
原本還可以沿山路繞到山上,從另一個角度觀賞瀑布,但因為等候停雨時躭誤了不少時間,加上大雨後山路泥濘一片,還是放棄了。


A Journey to Shiretoko (3) – Twin Falls

The weather in Shiretoko peninsula could change dramatically, jumping from sunshine to rainstorm in a few minutes’ time on my way to the youth hostel at Iwaobetsu. It was still rather cold in Hokkaido early in June. The mountains are still snow capped, and I could feel the chill even staying at low ground.

The youth hostel by the Iwaobetsu River bank at central Shiretoko could be reached by bus. Most parts of the peninsula were countrypark land, and traffic was under strict control. Except in July and August, there were very few bus services in the park each day. Lined by the shoreline cliffs, Shiretoko peninsula is a paradise of coastal waterfalls. Streams of the Shiretoko Mountains plunged down from the cliff tops before running into the sea. My original plan was to get off the bus and visit the Oshinkoshin Fall on my way to the hostel, and hopped on another bus one hour later. The bus moved on in the chilly rain. Just when I was hesitating on whether I should change my plan or not, a wide and roaring waterfall came into my sight through the window all of a sudden. This surely did helpe me to make up my mind.

The waterfall was located right beside the road. There were few visitors at the time, but they had all crowded into the souvenir shop. I was not planning to but anything so I just waited outside for the rain to stop, side-by-side with the fat cat which probably had just escaped from the over-crowded shop. The rain started to die down a bit. I took no time to waste and ran straight to the waterfall.

The 50-meter-high waterfall was one of the eight famous sights of Shiretoko and classified as one of the top 100 Japanese waterfalls. It is also known as the "Twin Beauty Falls" and "Husband-and-wife Falls" due to the two parallel water streams that made up the waterfall. After the heavy rain, the waterfall became even more spectacular, not only covered by the sprays sent out by the falling water, but the twin falls now transformed into triplets, with the lower parts merging into a lace curtain of water, resembling a Japanese bride at a traditional Shinto wedding ceremony on her pure white silk shiromuku (the traditional wedding kimono).
There was a trail leading uphill to another viewing platform for the waterfall, but I had to give up the side trip since the trail was extremely muddy and too much time had already been wasted on waiting for the rain to stop.

知床旅情(二)-趕路篇 A Journey to Shiretoko (2)–Getting There

知床旅情(二)-趕路篇

由於香港直飛北海道千歲機場的機票十分昂貴,我採取了飛東京成田機場再轉火車北上的迂迴路線。知床地處日本東北盡頭,全程中途要接駁五次火車一次巴士,行程漫長而緊湊,還要在火車上過夜,但既然已經買了JR火車證,又可以節省一晚的住宿錢,我又是個任何環境都可以睡得著的人,何樂而不為。以前獨遊歐洲的時候,情況再惡劣十倍都捱過了,相比起來,在日本乘夜班火車旅行,仍算是十分安全舒服的事。

自己在外地旅行時,經常利用夜班車,一來省掉白天趕路的時間,一覺醒來已到達下一個目的地,二來又可省掉住宿費。畢竟日本是個細小的國家,加上鐵路系統先進和發達,需要超過8小時的長途車,真是絕無僅有。要利用長途火車過夜,真是要花點心思安排。北海道的鐵路系統相對較疏落,造就了夜車渡宿的條件。

由東京北上的新幹線列車,終站在八戶,要到北海道,得先轉車去青森,再轉夜車上札幌。日本火車有寢台(即臥席)車廂,但附加費用驚人,比住一晚酒店還貴,當然不會考慮,一般都只會在普通車廂坐著睡。但原來青森至札幌的夜車,設有一節特別的臥席車廂,持有JR火車者證不需要額外付款,卻鮮有人知。JR急行"はまなす(Hamanasu)"號夜行列車,設有一節"のびのびカーペット"臥席車廂,因為只有一節,又不用附加費,所以名額經常被預訂一空。

"のびのびカーペット"臥席車廂內觀


"のびのびカーペット"一名源自"Nobi-nobi Carpet",顧名思義,車廂內沒有床鋪,只在地台上鋪上地毯,大家排排臥,像睡榻榻米一般。地台雖然鋪了地毯,不習慣睡硬板床的朋友,可能會睡不安寧。

列車清晨6時到達札幌,車站內已經有不少趕車上班上學的人,日本人穿州過縣上班上學,也很普遍。由札幌到網走的車程,在田園間穿梭,是個頗愉快的旅程。由網走至知床斜里的釧網本線列車,開始進入知床半島的範圍,列車沿海岸行進,沿途經過保持天然的濕原潟湖,水鳥齊飛,遠處是初夏時節仍白雪蓋頂的知床連峰,好一幅如畫風景。

由東京成田機場下機開始計算,到達知床的斜里鎮,剛剛好用了24小15分鐘。

A Journey to Shiretoko (2) - Getting There


Due to the very expensive air ticket from Hong Kong to Hokkaido, I took a rather long and complicated route via Tokyo, Aomori to Sapporo. Shiretoko peninsula is the northern-east most territories of Japan, and the whole route was made up of 6 train rides and a bus ride, including a over-night ride on the train., but this was really nothing in comparison to my previous European trips. I had already brought the JR train pass, and I could save the hotel money too. That is what I normally do when I am travelling overseas as a backpacker.

The northwards Shinkansen super-express train from Tokyo stopped at Hachinohe, from where I needed to hop on another train to Aomori for another over-night train to Sapporo. They did have sleeping cars on the train, but it was so expensive that I would be better off staying in a hotel for the night. Unknown to many travellers, there is in fact another kind of sleeping car on the "Hamanasu" Over-night Express from Aomori to Sapporo. It is called the"Nobi-nobi Carpet". There is no extra charge for JR Pass holders to reserve a "Nobi-nobi Carpet" place. As its name suggests, the sleeping car is just a single long carpeted platform, and people sleep on it like the traditional Japanese tatami. It is very popular among the over-night travellers and reservation is highly recommended. Not suitable for people who get used to soft bed though.

The Hamanasu train arrived at the Sapporo station around 6 a.m. early in the morning, when the place was already packed with the early birds rushing to work or school. The train ride from Sapporo to Abashiri was rather pleasant as the train dashing through the countryside of northern Hokkaido. The scenic ride from Abashiri to Shiretoko Shari took me right into the gateway to the Shiretoko peninsula, running along the coast, passing through natural wetland reserve for waterfowls, and with the beautiful view of the snow capped Shiretoko Mountain Range as the back ground.


The amount of time took me from the Narita airport to the town of Shiretoko Shari ? 24 hours and 15 minutes exactly.


Tuesday, November 14, 2006

深秋蝶影 Autumn Butterflies


深秋蝶影

今年的秋天姍姍來遲,近日天氣突然轉涼,才驚覺原來早已過了立冬。前天到大欖一帶遠足,山上陣風吹來,已感到點點寒意。大欖郊野公園早前經山火蹂躪,滿目瘡痍,只有少片山谷水源地帶未受波及。穿過這些倖存的小樹林,赫然發覺有蝴蝶在聚集,溪澗中亦散佈著蝴蝶的屍骸。到底這是因為山火令棲息地被毀所造成的後果,還是正常的集體越冬的開始,一時也說不清。

聽朋友說,在山的那一邊,也見到蝴蝶聚集的情景,程度達至「漫山遍野」。蝴蝶漫山遍野的情景,自己也有見過,但是這樣的情況,通常在十二份才出現。

大部份的蝶類,到了冬天就會死亡,牠們完成了一生的使命-繁殖下一代後,已很虛弱,天氣一轉冷,便紛紛死亡。但也有蝶類以成蟲方式度過寒冬,這些蝴蝶會聚在一起集體越冬,為了避寒,會像候鳥一般集體遷移到南方,在溫暖山谷裡等待寒冬過去,香港某些地方,是牠們集體越冬的地點。牠們有的整個冬天都在香港停留,有的則只停留一段時間便繼續南飛,例如虎斑蝶。捱得過嚴冬,這些越冬的蝴蝶就可以在春天北飛回繁殖地繁衍下一代。

早年有幸跟隨蝴蝶專家饒戈到小冷水考察冬天蝴蝶谷,濛濛冷雨中,藍點紫斑蝶漫山遍野的掛滿樹梢,的確是自然奇觀,但更震撼的,是滿地覆蓋的蝴蝶屍骸,經過長途跋涉的飛行,以為可以避過凍僵的下場,但虛弱不堪的軀體,始終捱不過寒冬冷雨的煎熬。此情此景,令人不禁嘆息生命是那麼脆弱。

如果遇上集體越冬的蝴蝶,,還望大家只可靜靜細心觀察,千萬不要作不必要的打擾。有些人為了拍攝蝴蝶滿天飛的奇景,特意驚擾牠們,使牠們亂飛,但是這樣會令牠們消耗體力,提早死亡,無法在第二年春天繁殖下一代。

梁山伯與祝英台為愛殉情,死後化作翩翩彩蝶,脫離俗世的枷鎖,雙宿雙棲,何等浪漫。但現實中的蝴蝶,卻是何等的脆弱,要面對的,是何等殘酷的生存環境。

Autumn Butterflies

Autumn came late this year after the hottest October on record. Only when it suddently got cooler these days that I realized it was in fact already late fall. I could feel the coolness in the air while standing on the hill top during a hiking trip in the Tai Lam area two days ago. The Tai Lam Country Park was in a horrified state after the recent disastrous hill fire. In fact the entire area was burnt to the ground with total loss of trees, leaving only small patches of bushes un-touched near the gully floors. As I walked through these patches of surviving greenery, I saw quite a number of butterflies gathering in the bushes, and dead ones at the dried stream bed too. I had no idea if this was the result of the destruction of their natural habitat by the fire, or was just the beginning of the normal winter gathering habit of the butterflies.

According to my friend, there was a gathering of the butterflies on the otherside of territories too, so many that it could be described as “covering the entire hillside”. I had seen this kind of situation too, but that would normally happen in the late Decembers.

Most species of butterfly die in winter. After having completed their life cycle by laying down clusters of egg at the end of the season, they have come close to exhausting their life and strength, and die as the temperature drops. Some species do gather in flocks and survive the winter in their adult form. In order to escape from the cold weather, they migrate like birds, stay in the warmer valleys in the south until the winter ends. A few spots in Hong Kong have been known to be the sites of such “Winter Butterfly Valleys”. Some stay in these valleys for the whole winter, but some (like the Common Tigers) continue their southbound journey after staying for a few weeks. Only those survive the winter are able to produce their offsprings in the coming spring back in the north.

I have had the privillege to visit one of the winter butterfly valleys in Siu Lang Shui with the local butterfly specialist Vor Yiu years ago. In the winter drizzle, the sight of tens of thousand of Blue-spotted Crows hanging on trees all over the hill-side was turly spectacular, but the valley floor covered by thousands of died butterflies was a much more shocking scene. After flying for thousnads of miles and hoping to escape from death by freezing, their exhausted bodies were eventually unable to survive the cold winter shower. By looking at that horrifying scene, one could not stop thinking how fragile life could be.

In order to take photos of a spectacular scene, some people would make the exhausted butterflies fly by disturbing them. I strongly against this kind of activity, since that will be a further and fatal drain on their already weakening strength.

In the romantic Chinese legend of the Butterfly Lovers, Liang and Zhu ended their own life in order to escape from the controls of their fathers and the patriarchal society, and transformed into a pair of butterfly, staying togather forever. However, the survival of a butterfly is by no means close to romantic but brutal in real life.

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

一個平凡的日子,一個平凡的人 An Ordinary Day for an Ordinary Person



一個平凡的日子,一個平凡的人

對於很多人來說,今天只是一個平凡的日子,包括我自己。我在某年的今天呱呱墮地,但在過去幾世紀,在這天出生的人,不下數億,所以也不算甚麼特別的日子。今天我如常的一早起床上班,只是也會慶幸命運一直待我不薄。

其實我只是想說:多謝您們,爸、媽、弟弟們,以及所有在我生命路上一直伴我同行的各位。


An Ordinary Day for an Ordinary Person

Today is just an ordinary day for many people, and for me too. Billions of people was born in this very same day in the past centuries, including myself, so there is nothing special about it. Getting up early in the morning as usual, and go to work as usual, just be grateful that life has not been hard on me up to this very minute.

I just want to say, thank you so much, Mum and Dad, and my little brothers, and you all who have walked with me through life in these past years.

人生的樂章


人生的樂章

You by my side that's how I see us
I close my eyes and I can see us
We'll on our way to say "I do"

I see us now your hand in my hand
This is the hour, this is the moment
And I can hear sweet voices singing
Ave Maria, Ave Maria, Ave Maria.

婚宴中播起了羅渣士(Julie Rogers) 的著名歌曲「婚禮」(The Wedding) ,這首舊歌在香港近年又成了新人們的寵兒、婚宴中的必備歌曲。最初認識此曲,是方逸華主唱的國語版「花月佳期」。讀書時喜歡聽電台的懷舊金曲節目,初次聽到這首歌曲的旋律,已覺得很吸引,但只知是來自1966年版一張名為「小雲雀」的電影原聲帶唱片,後來才知道有英文版本。不過原來英文版本也不是原裝,它是取自阿根廷歌曲、Joaquim Prieto所作的 La Novia,意思即fiancèe(未婚夫/妻)。心想,如果某天自己結婚,婚宴上也要選播這首歌。

今天是我兩位朋友結婚的日子,認識兩位,是在自己兼任管理員的遠足網站,他們也是在遠足活動中走在一起,最初在一次留意到他們拍拖的,應該是我,當時我是那次野外活動的領隊。他們在大自然中約會,湖光山色中互相認識,到現在共諧連理,說句老套的說話,我見證了這段良緣的萌芽、成長、以至開花結果。宴會上坐滿四席的,都是一起登山涉水的朋友。

兩個人能夠走在一起,已是緣份,更是難得是志趣相投,最後墮入愛河,共諧連理,羨煞旁人。

人生的樂章中,可以是獨奏,更多的人是選擇的是二重奏,甚至大合奏,但無論如何,能夠選擇到自己喜愛的曲目和合奏伙伴,都是值得慶幸的事。不需要璀璨堂煌,簡潔清朗,一樣動聽。

重九浩劫

[明報圖片]


重九浩劫

「綠蔭裡,草坡上,讓我胸襟一再展;拋開了,心底倦,讓我走向大自然…」腦海中的歌聲一轉,忽然變了草木燃燒的啪啦卜碌的聲響…

每年重陽節,香港的山野例必火光熊熊。掃墓焚燒香燭冥鏹留下的火種、清理墓地雜草及為求「火燒旺地」故意放的火,遇上風高物燥的天氣,引致大大小小的山火,令消防、飛行服務隊和民安隊員疲於奔命。過去幾年,在大力宣傳下,情況有所改善,但今年似乎又捲土重來,重陽在元朗大棠燒起的火頭,在強勁的東北季侯風助虐下,一發不可收拾,漫延至大欖郊野公園,山火已經燒了三日兩夜,至今仍未能救熄。消防處懷疑山火是重陽掃墓市民留下的火種引起。

這是近十年來香港最嚴重的山火,兩條長達一公里半的火龍在張牙舞爪,焚毀面積至今超過四百公頃,六萬五千棵樹付諸一炬。消防和民安隊員仍在火場努力撲救,電視新聞鏡頭下所見,十多個小時翻山越嶺、馬不停蹄地撲火,臉上雖一片炭黑,仍難掩倦容。

據漁農自然護理署估計,要這片土地回復舊觀,至少要十年以上的時間,在這片郊野土地內棲息的果子狸及豹貓等動物,若能有幸逃出火海,亦要面臨無家可歸。

由於地質貧瘠的關係,大欖一帶風化嚴重,早年全是光禿禿的一片山頭。根據漁護署高級農林助理陳先生的回憶,大欖於70年代開始植林,由零開始,當時植林人員每日揹過百棵樹苗,烈日當空下徒步兩小時上山種植,很多新入職的員工做了半天便熬不住辭職,艱苦程度不足為外人道。過去十年,自己亦一直有參加義務植樹護林的工作,植林人員的辛勞,深有體會。

今次山火主要在植林區內發生,幾年前亦曾經在大欖郊野公園參與植林活動,親手搬運並植下多株樹苗,雖然不知火場是否包括當年植樹的地點,看到電視鏡頭下火光熊熊的樹林,心中也不禁戚然。想像得到植林人員眼見當年辛苦植下一株株樹苗、漸成熟的樹林打回原形,多年努力的心血毀於一旦,他們的心痛和耿耿於懷,感同身受。

「讓青苗,天天大,願這花草不會損;願火苗,速消滅,綠化郊野每林園。在美麗林蔭深處,鳥聲在慢慢轉,山水之間種靈氣,願清新莫改變。」哼到這裡,喉嚨忽然一陣哽咽,竟然唱不下去。一首兒時舊歌,想不到令自己有這麼大的感觸。


Tuesday, November 07, 2006

人生的樂章


You by my side that's how I see us
I close my eyes and I can see us
We'll on our way to say "I do"

I see us now your hand in my hand
This is the hour, this is the moment
And I can hear sweet voices singing
Ave Maria, Ave Maria, Ave Maria.

婚宴中播起了羅渣士(Julie Rogers) 的著名歌曲「婚禮」(The wedding) ,這首舊歌在香港近年又成了新人們的寵兒、婚宴中的必備歌曲。最初認識此曲,是方逸華主唱的國語版「花月佳期」。讀書時喜歡聽電台的懷舊金曲節目,初次聽到這首歌曲的旋律,已覺得很吸引,但只知是來自1966年版一張名為「小雲雀」的電影原聲帶唱片,後來才知道有英文版本。不過原來英文版本也不是原裝,它是取自阿根廷歌曲、Joaquim Prieto所作的 La Novia,意思即fiancèe(未婚夫/妻)。心想,如果某天自己結婚,婚宴上也要選播這首歌。

今天是我兩位朋友結婚的日子,認識兩位,是在自己兼任管理員的遠足網站,他們也是在遠足活動中走在一起,最初在一次留意到他們拍拖的,應該是我,當時我是那次野外活動的領隊。他們在大自然中約會,湖光山色中互相認識,到現在共諧連理,說句老套的說話,我見證了這段良緣的萌芽、成長、以至開花結果。宴會上坐滿四席的,都是一起登山涉水的朋友。

兩個人能夠走在一起,已是緣份,更是難得是志趣相投,最後墮入愛河,共諧連理,羨煞旁人。

人生的樂章中,可以是獨奏,更多的人是選擇的是二重奏,甚至大合奏,但無論如何,能夠選擇到自己喜愛的曲目和合奏伙伴,都是值得慶幸的事。不需要璀璨堂煌,簡潔清朗,一樣動聽。

Friday, October 27, 2006

情與景


情與景 

乘搭公共交通工具時,經常都看見乘客們塞著耳筒在聽MP3,自己很少這樣做,因為覺得欣賞音樂,環境的配合與否,影響確實是很大。耳邊響起的是《高山流水》,眼前卻是擠得像沙甸魚般的乘客;聽著情意綿綿的情歌,旁邊的一對情侶卻正在吵架;任憑你想像力如何豐富,也真的很難投入那音樂的意境。藝術展覽館內通常都是燈光昏暗,展品只有射燈照明,雖然不是把配合主題的環境重現,但起碼留給參觀者的想像力一個空間,讓其發揮。

參與長跑活動已有一段時間,平時練習,尤其是操練長課時,倒也有一邊跑一邊聽MP3的習慣。目的當然不是為了欣賞音樂,只是漫長的兩小時中,腳在機械般地動著,心中總不成持續一片空白,所以耳邊要有點聲響調劑一下。記得有一次在船灣淡水湖跑步,由大尾篤沿湖邊跑入新娘潭,當時正值深秋時份,路兩邊的楓香樹已滿目丹紅,部份已轉黃在落葉,風吹起枯葉在沙沙地響,耳邊的MP3剛響起維瓦爾第《四季組曲》小提琴協奏曲中的「秋天」,此情此景,好像忽然深切感受到作曲家創作此樂章時的心情。

大學時參加過合唱團,自己雖然喜歡古典音樂,但因先天不足,歌藝一向不敢恭維,參加合唱團,是為了滿足表演慾而又可避免到出醜,坦白點說,就是濫竽充數。合唱團每年有兩次公開演出,歐洲的合唱音樂起源自宗教聖樂,所以曲目中例必有宗教合唱音樂。那一年的曲目是莫札特的《小彌撒曲》Missa brevis in B-Dur KV275。彌撒曲是用自己一竅不通的拉丁文唱的,自己也不是教徒,練習時口中唱著聖曲,心卻無甚感覺。演出場地是大學附近的一座中古教堂,到了表演當日,我們站立在莊嚴的聖壇前演唱,古雅的教堂內迴響著風琴聲和我們彌撒曲的歌聲,忽然間心裡一陣感動,平時不覺怎麼樣的歌聲,好像變成了天籟一般。

曾經有段時期,台灣歌手黃品源的一首舊歌「你怎麼捨得我難過」是我最愛聽和唱的,不為什麼,只因當時正受感情銼折。

心境、音樂、情景的互動,的確是十分微妙。

Tuesday, October 24, 2006

知床旅情 A Journey to Shiretoko (1)


知床旅情(一)

今年初夏,當北海道大部份的高地仍為白雪覆蓋,我踏上了期待已久的知床半島旅程,日本最後的一片真正蠻荒之地。
知床一名來自愛奴語的「シルエトク」(sir etok),意即「大地之盡頭」,或「大地突出之所」。知床半島位於北海道的東部,伸入鄂霍次克海中,貫穿半島中部的「知床連峰」是一系列高度超過1,500公尺的火山,其中包括了知床半島最高峰-1,661公尺高的羅臼岳。

早在1964年,知床半島已成為國立公園。它是日本最具原始自然美的地區之一。半島北端的知床岬地區,更是只能經水路或多日的步行才可到達。公園內是眾多野生物種如棕熊、蝦夷鹿、狐狸、虎頭海鵰、以及瀕臨絕種或當地特有的品種如毛腿漁鴞和知床菫等的天然生息地,對全球多種瀕危海鳥、候鳥、三文魚和海洋哺乳動物(如北太平洋海獅和部份鯨類)的生存繁衍亦十分重要。

因為知床半島在生態及生物多樣性方面不可替代的價值,2005年被正式列入聯合國世界自然遺產名單中。

A Journey to Shiretoko (1)

Early summer in 2006, when most parts of the highland of Hokkaido were still covered by snow, I took a trip to Shiretoko, one of the few remaining true wilderness in Japan.

Located on the easternmost portion of Hokkaido, the Shiretoko Peninsula protrudes into the Sea of Okhotsk and the Nemuro Straits. Running longitudinally through the peninsula, a series of volcanoes excessing 1,500m -high form the Shiretoko Renzan (Mountain Range), with the 1,661m-high Mt. Rausu (the highest peak on the peninsula) at the centre.

The name Shiretoko is derived from shiruitoku, an Ainu language word meaning "the end of the land" or "the place where the earth protrudes".

The peninsula was declared a National Park in 1964. It is one of Japan's most beautiful and unspoiled regions. The northern tip (Shiretoko Cape) is only accessiable by boats or by multi-day trekking. It is the home to a variety of wildlife, including the brown bears, the sika dears, the foxes, the Steller's sea eagles, the endangered Blackiston's Fish owl and the Viola kitamiana plant. It is also globally important for threatened sea birds and migratory birds, and for a number of marine mammals, including the Steller's Sea Lions.

In 2005, Shiretoko Peninsula was added to UNESCO's World Natural Heritage Sites List for the irreplaceable value of the peninsula's ecosystem and biodiversity.

Friday, October 20, 2006

Meeting the Muses

Meeting the Muses

忽然很想寫一些關於藝術美學的感覺。藝術一詞,涉獵廣泛,可以是一切由人對事物的創造表現或模擬再現,表達形式也可以是有形或無形。美學,籠統地說,就是對事物美的感覺和審定美的準則。

自己可以說是藝術的門外漢。如果硬要找出與藝術扯上關係的經驗,我倒有一些:小學時候最喜歡美術課,因為可以不用背書動腦筋;中學畢業時參加公開考試,為了湊足考科數目,也選了美術,為的也是不用讀書,只要交了畫作和素描部份的試卷,藝術史部份胡扯一通也可以合格過關;第一份正職與建築藝術有關,就是協助建立大學建築系的數碼圖像資料庫搜尋系統,每日都對著一大堆世界建築藝術精品的圖片。

有人會說,你就憑這些,竟然膽敢出來評論藝術? 當然不敢。其實人對美的感覺是與生俱來,每個人的感覺或有不同,也未必每個人都能表達出這種感受,又或提得出什麼理論,但對美的事物的讚賞和追求,人皆有之。專業理論我當然拿不出來,作為一個普通人的直覺和感受,我倒有一大堆,如果大家不怕沉悶,姑且讓我來胡扯一下吧。

有人的地方就有人造的事物,藝術美學在日常生活中無處不在。你覺得昂平的公眾廁所很有風格,某地下鐵月台的拼貼磁磚畫很搶眼,又或者IFC二期活像個電動鬚刨,其實你在不知不覺間已進行著有關建築和街頭美學的評論。

五十八件巴黎龐比度中心的珍藏,最近開始在香港藝術館展出,本想約朋友一起去參觀,但朋友的反應是「我沒什麼術細胞的呀」,最終還是自己獨個兒去了。展覽中不少像我一般「怎麼看也不像懂藝術」的參觀者,其中一個五六歲的小男孩,在母親帶領下参觀,不停地低聲發表著他對展品的觀感「這個公仔好得意(可愛)呀」「我不喜歡他塗藍色,紅色漂亮些啊」…。或者大家對他的評論不以為然,但那是沒有受美學訓練的影響、小孩子的最直接的感官,所以每當他對一件展品作出評論,我都特意多看一眼,看看我與他的感受,有什麼同與不同。

眾位大師的珍品中,最吸引我的,是羅馬尼亞現代雕塑先驅布朗庫西(Constantin Brancusi)於1910年創作的的青銅雕刻《沉睡的繆斯》(Sleeping Muse)-黑暗沉鬱的展場中央,一座質材明亮的作品,最簡約的雞蛋型狀,幾條流暢的曲線,雖然很抽象,但明顯感覺到一張沉睡中的面孔,眉目間給人平靜、和平的感覺,又像一具面相詳和的佛像。

繆斯(the Muses)正是希臘神話中的藝術九女神,掌管詩詞文學、歌唱音樂、戲劇、舞蹈等創作藝術,英文Museum(博物館)一字,亦源於希臘文Mouseion,即藝術之神的寶座(a seat or shrine of the muses)。 繆斯雖然沉睡了,看來仍然沒有停止鼓動創作者的靈感,牽動觀者的遐想。

不要再說自己沒有藝術細胞了,一起來以平常人的身份約會繆斯吧。

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Lifetime Marathon 人生馬拉松 (2)


Lifetime Marathon (2)

I was never a strong person since I was a child, not even dare dreaming of myself becoming a runner. The P.E. class in school was meant to be a break for us students from the busy lesson schedule, but one of the subjucts - long distance running - was certainly a nightmare to me. I had to stop running each time I reached the 200m line, completely out of breath, accompanied by a painful stomach and strengthless legs. My P.E. teacher still let me pass the test, out of sympathy I guessed.

I started hiking regularly years later, and as a result becoming physcially fitter. Althought finishing the yearly 100km-long Oxfam Trailwalker walk-for-charity events was no longer a problem to me, I still could not run for any distance longer than 200m.

As part of the Trailwalker training, I finially start jogging 4 years ago. Still mixing running with walking at the beginning, but gradually manage to run non-stop for 1km, then 2km, 4km…eventually I was able to complete my first Nike 10km race by the end of the year. Still, completing a full marathon was omething beyond my imagination. I was not someone who would rash into things, therefore I took completing the half-marathon as my goal in the S.C. Hong Kong International Marathon in the following February. I had completed my very first full marathon 1 year later, and the full marathon in the coming Februaty will be my third.

Life is like a marathon race. It is not the momentary enjoyment of the feeling of speed that I am looking for, but to keep running to make it to the finish line.

It you ask me why I keep on joining the marathon race, it is because I am still able to do it, and feel good about it

人生馬拉松 (二)

自小身體孱弱,肺活量屬於標準以下,一早已認定自己不是跑步的材料。中學的體育課中,也有長跑訓練這一項,對我來說,也是最要命的項目。學校的體育課,其實也只是讓同學有機會離開課室鬆一鬆,體育老師只是略為講解一下,便讓我們自己繞著球場跑。每每跑到200米左右,便開始上氣不接下氣,下腹絞痛,雙腳發軟。因為長跑是體育課計分項目之一,所以不行也得捱下去,但就由跑步變慢行,直至老師吹哨子叫停。體育老師給我合格的分數,恐怕都是「勤力」分,再加一點「同情」分。

後來愛上了登山遠足,連動多了,體力有改善,也慢慢培養了出韌力,雖然日行四五十公里也可以應付,亦多次完成了樂施會一年一度的一百公里慈善遠足活動,但始終還是跑不起來,都是那一句,跑到200米左右便要慢下來。

四年多前,為了在毅行者活動的完成時間上有所改進,應隊友的要求,嘗試開始以慢跑練氣。起初仍是半跑半步行,慢慢地可以連續跑上一公里了,接著是兩公里、四公里…到年底時,已經可以完成我的第一個長跑賽事-Nike十公里。

雖然有了信心,但自已不是一個一步登天的人。完成全程馬拉松,對我來說仍然是遙不可及。接著的渣打香港國際馬拉松,我只參加了半馬拉松,以此為練習目標。接著是一年後的美津龍半馬,終於在去年完成了我一生中的第一個全程馬拉松。明年二月,將會是我第三次參加全程馬拉松了。

由於自己身體條件所限,同時又較遲才起步,所以不會勉強自己有大的突破。對我來說,生活也像一場馬拉松,不求一時的快速衝刺的感覺,而是要準確知道自己的能耐,保持均速,到達終點。

如果問我為什麼每年都繼續參加馬拉松?因為覺得自己仍然有能力做得到,因為感覺良好。

Monday, October 16, 2006

Lifetime Marathon 人生馬拉松(1)


Web photo ©K.S.Down

Lifetime Marathon (1)

Shortly after the closing of the registration for the Nike 10K race, here comes the registration for the Hong Kong S.C. International Marathon next year. As usual, the network connection to the online registration servers was badly congested. Although Hong Kong is a highly competitive society, running is never very popular as a challenge and competitive sport, except for a bunch of enthusiasts and sportsmen. For most people, running (or more appropriately, jogging) is just a convenient way to keep yourself fit and healthy.

The recent raise in popularity of long distance running has made it more like a carnival event of the city than a sport competition gathering. Good or bad, it is really hard to say, as it depends on what is in the mind of the participant.

Most people in Hong Kong jog every day just for keeping fit. There is no difference in nature between an hour's jog in the park after work and the morning walk of their elderly parents. Some like it done with friends and neighbours, some prefer doing it in solitude with the help of the earphone set and loud MP3 music. Nevertheless, as "how long or how fast have the others run" is concerned, it's none of my business. If we take away the negative factor of air pollution (sigh!), any kind of moderate and adequate amount of exercise is surely good for our health.

For many others, running is a favourite socializing activity. It doesn't matter if it is on the outdoor Tartan tracks at the sport ground or the indoor treadmills in a fitness club, the purpose is clear : tapping information from and socializing with friends, and hopefully meeting more new friends. Since you can not just stand there when all others are running (as this will be too obvious, ha ha), you do gain something after all – some exercises. But beware of the unexpected side effect : you might gain even more – weight, as a snack or a drink after the jog is rather common among friends.

However, the recent sharp raise in popularity of the sport is just the result of "Be Trendy". Since sponsoring public event is a well known advertising tactic, it will not be surprising to see the push by the sponsoring parties in order to make the events a city carnival and the talk of the town. Image when everyone around you talks about joining the event, and pop stars' participation has become news headlines, how out-of-date people will think you are if you are unable to say "I have joined too". So what you will see are so many first-timers who have not even jogged once before the event, exhausted or even injured, on the day of the race. There are also many participants who know their limits, never plan to finish the race but to hop on the buses heading for the finishing point right after having a photo taken on the Tsing Ma Bridge.

Of course, there are always the most original and proper reasons for participating a sport event – for the great physical challenge to oneself and the fellow sportsmen, the prize and glory, or simply for the self-confidence and self-worthiness. However, since not everyone is born a sportsman, exceeding one's physical limits might result in permanent damage. Is this really worthed? Views and opinions do vary from individual to individual.

Indeed Life is like a marathon. We all have different goals, and it is quite all right. The important thing is to know clearly what your goals are, and not just following the others around you. At the same time, you got to know your own limits, and understand the price you might have to pay. It doesn't matter if you take it as a dynamic or a means-to-achieve in your life, as long as it does not hurt any other people, and you think the price paid is worthed, the term "Right Thing to Do" does not apply.

人生馬拉松(一)

前一陣子,Nike十公里長跑報名剛完結,渣打香港國際馬拉松的報名又開始了,接上網上報名伺服器的連線又例牌的大擠塞。雖然香港是個充滿競爭的社會,但一般香港人跑步,目的主要是保持身體健康,比賽挑戰時間,只是發燒友運動員的專利。近年香港興起參與長跑比賽活動,長跑的性質,己成為城中盛事,多於運動比賽。是好是壞,其實難下結論,要看參與者的目的。

正如上面所說,很多人跑步,純粹為保持健康,下班後晚飯前到樓下公園跑一小時,就好像老人家每天晨運一樣。有人喜歡與世隔絕地、戴上MP3耳機只顧自己跑,亦有人喜歡呼朋喚友一起跑。但其他人跑多快多長,似乎與自己毫無關係。運動只要是不過量,如果除去香港空氣污染的負影響(嘆氣!),持之以恆,對身體當然是有益。

對另一些人來說,跑步是社交活動,不論是到體育館跑泰坦跑道,還是在健身俱樂部跑步機(這類應該是佔多數),目的都是一樣:見見朋友,談談天,收收風,又或者認識更多新朋友。只是在過樣的場合,大家在跑,你總不能只站著(這樣的話你的目的就完全暴露了,呵呵),於是有意無意間,你也在做運動。不過小心跑步之後的餘慶節目-大吃大喝,隨時可能出不抵入,越跑越胖。

不過近年香港興起參與長跑比賽活動,很多卻是因為「趕潮流」。贊助活動還不是為了賣廣告,贊助商為了宣傳效果,刻意把活動催谷成為城中盛事、任何人都可以參與的嘉年華。當身邊的人都在訑談論已經報了名、而傳媒又大字標題「某某明星歌手都有參加」的時候,你卻搭不上嘴,那肯定會被認為是很落伍。於是很多人一次也未練習過便去跑,體力不繼、虛脫、受傷,層出不窮,健康運動變成傷身運動;另一些人則比較理智,根本就沒有打算完成,早已計劃好到青馬大橋拍完紀念照後,便乘大會專車回鉖點。

當然,不論贊同與否,體育運動最原始最「正統」的目的,就是挑戰自己挑戰別人,奪取榮耀,或純粹令自己有所提昇,肯定自己的價值。但畢竟不是人人都具天生的運動員條件,勉強自己超越身體的極限,換來日後陪伴終生的傷患,值得與否,是仁者見仁。

其實長跑也好,做人也好,目標每個人都會不同,但這不要緊,重要的是知道自己在做什麼,切忌盲從,人云亦云;也要清楚自己的能力,及需要付出的代價。當作是動力也好,手段也好,只要不傷害別人,自己又覺得是值得,就無所謂正確不正確。

Friday, October 13, 2006

Floating Village within a Metropolis 繁華都市中的水鄉風情


Floating Village within a Metropolis

Start functioning since 1883, the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter is the oldest among the many typhoon shelters in Hong Kong, It used to be the most colourful and lively hub of floating restaurants at night, serving delicious seafood and fishermen-style congee (rice porridge) prepared by the fishermen at their "kitchens-on-the-sea", accompanied by the songs performed on tiny floating stages.

After several large-scale reclamations and the construction of the Island Eastern Corridor, the size of the Typhoon Shelter shrinked considerably, and so was the floating restaurant business. Still, its unique waterfront landscape and atmosphere of a floating village within a metropolis somehow manages to linger on.

However, the recent draft Wan Chai North Outline Zoning Plan has proposed a further 2-hectare reclamation along the waterfront for a Harbour Park, which would permanently change the face of the waterfront landscape. Although the Harbour Park proposal was later removed from the OZP, the proposed Central-Wan Chai Bypass and the Island Eastern Corridor Link still require "adequate extent" of reclamation within the typhoon shelter, not to mention the addition of a artificial sandy beach.

In any case, the unique waterfront landscape of the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter will be lost permanently.


繁華都市中的水鄉風情
香港多個避風塘中,銅鑼灣避風塘歷史最久,建成於1883年,也最有情調,這裡曾是十分熱鬧和特色的水上浮動餐廳,艇家在海上廚房即時炮製海鮮美食和艇仔粥,顧客亦可以隨興點唱小曲。經過幾次大規模填海,又修築了東區走廊,避風塘越縮越小,夜遊船河亦日漸衰微,但銅鑼灣避風塘仍具繁華都市中難覓的水鄉風情。

灣仔北分區計劃大綱打算在銅鑼灣避風塘防波堤向外填海2公頃建「 海心公園」,避風塘風貌將被改變,雖然海心公園最終被刪除,但計劃中的中環灣仔繞道連接東區走廊,仍需在避風塘內灣作「適量」填海,甚至有人工海灘。

無論如何,銅鑼灣避風塘的原本風貌,都將會被改變。

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

Doesn't Matter If It Is … 不管…還是…都…

網上圖片 Image from the web


不管…還是…都…
論「最緊要實際」

鄧伯爺:不管白貓黑貓,抓住老鼠都是好貓。
  - 已故中國領導人鄧小平論「實事求是」的經典語錄。

煲呔曾:不管姓「強」還是姓「良」,只要政策能達到社會共識、立法可取及公眾支持,都一樣接受。
  - 香港特首曾蔭權回應前政務司司長陳方安生對他「強政勵治不等同有良政」的批抨。

傳聞亞扁嫂:不管穿「外」還是「內」,都算國務機要費。
(廣東話版 – 唔理著「面」定著「底」,一於入國務機要費。)  - 台灣總統府的國務機要費賬目,居然包括陳水扁妻吳淑珍與女兒的女性衛生用品和內褲。


Doesn't Matter If It Is …
Quotes On "Practicalism"

Grandpa Teng : Doesn't matter if it is white or black. As long as the cat catches mice, it is a good cat.
- Infamous quote from the late Chinese leader Deng Xiaoping.
Bowtie Tsang : Doesn't matter if it is called strong governance or good governance, I take the one that is backed by good policies, public support, and able to strive for social consensus.
- Hong Kong SAR Chief Executive Donald Tsangi’s response to former chief secretary for administration Anson Chan's assertion that "strong governance was not quite a factor for good governance".
Ah Bien's wife (allegedly) : Doesn't matter if it is undies or punch, put that under Presidential Office's State Affairs Fund!
- Items found in the ledger of Presidential Office's State Affairs Fund in Taiwan : Ladies underwaers and sanitary pads for the wife and daughter of President Chen Shui Bien.

Monday, October 09, 2006

廣東話的智慧(一)

廣東話的智慧(一)

最近在地下鐵的月台看到一系列頗有趣的廣告,主題是教人一些廣東話用字的正確寫法。千百年來中原地方都是中華大地統治權力的中心,正統的中文書寫文字,都以那裡的語言為依據,邊地「蠻夷」民族的語言,毋須理會,所以方言詞語往往沒有書寫的正字。學校的正統中文教育,亦不鼓勵學生以方言作文,主要是因為方言的地域局限性,不利於不同地域的華人的文字溝通。

不過以方言入文,亦有一定市場,原因之一是方言往往是生活化的產物,比較生動活潑,言簡意賅,看得懂的人會特別覺得「過癮」。近年中、港、台交流頻繁,港、台方言用語難免「入侵」正統的文字媒介,成為華人的共通用語。但要書寫方言,因為苦無正字,很多人都仍只能同音字或近音字代替,甚至要出動英文字母拼音。香港人以廣東話為主,最喜歡胡亂挑一同音字,加上一個「口」字旁,就當作正字寫下來。其實作為一種方言,廣東話屬於比較特別的一類,因為廣東話之中原來包含了不少古漢語,只是這些古漢語在中原地方因為逐漸少用而被遺忘,卻在被認為是偏遠地區的廣東被保留了下來。所以很多廣東話詞語,其實是可以用正字書寫的,絕大部份以廣東話為母語的人,也不會知道,反而以為見慣了的同音別字才是正確。

廣東話常用的詞語「捐窿捐罅」,是個典型例子,意即「無處不到、連最細微的地方也不放過」。「捐」在這裡是鑽進的意思,而捐字又剛好是個動詞,很多人會想當然地以為這就是正字,怎知道原來正確的寫法應是「瓹窿瓹罅」,瓹是盆底的孔,亦作動詞用,解作鑽、穿。

不過最令人啼笑皆非的還是個「搵」字,「搵」是「尋找」、「開發」的意思,早已是個公認的正字。香港是個商業社會,服務性行業也是主要經濟支柱,經營生意最重要是「搵客」,很多服務性行業的從業員也要主動「搵客」,找不到顧客就無法維持經營。不過原來「搵客」應該是寫作「捃客」,「捃」是尋找,發音Kwen2,剛好與廣東俗語「滾」近音。但「滾」是騙的意思,如果希望為你提供服務或產品的營業員在你面前不斷說要「滾」你,不知感受會如何呢?

不過俗語有云,無奸不商,「捃客」也好,「滾客」也好,字裡玄機,各自心領神會,說不定對方根本就是在說「滾客」呢,呵呵!

Thursday, October 05, 2006

Bewitched by Waterfalls 泉音瀑影, 總教我著迷





B
E
W
I
BY WATERFALLS
C
H
E
D

Browsing through some of the old files recently, I accidentally re-covered a scribbled note, which reminds me of a stream trekking trip years ago. It was a rainy summer…

“On a mid-summer day, I set out for a visit to the Ng Tung Stream in the Lam Tsuen Valley. Starting at the Man Tak Villa in the Ng Tung Chai village, I scrambled up-stream along the ravine. After the rain in previous night, the green valley was still filled by mist, with peaks poking out like fairy islands floating on a sea of cloud. Waterfalls plunged down from clifftops like snow-white silk cloths hanging on jade screens. I had visited all the waterfalls in the ravine : the Well-bottom Falls, hidden within a huge cave, so gloomy as it was at the River Styx; the Horse-tail Falls, bright and cheerful, sending sprays high around the waterfall, creating a misty ethereal atmosphere. It took me almost half a day to reach the Long Falls, since I had made numerous stops on the way, just to enjoy the beauty of the waterfalls as well as to take dips into the crystal clear pools.

Sitting on a rock right in front of the Long Falls, I took my lunch while watching the 120-foot-long waterfall plunging down from the cliff top like the Milkyway pouring down from heaven. I continued to trek up-stream to the secluded ravine near the source of the stream, searching for the legendary Maiden Falls which had been described as ‘gentle and beautiful like a lotus flower emerging from the pool’. Finally when I reached the source of the stream and near the top of Tai Mo Shan, I was greeted by the sunset. Looking down from the mountain, the sparkling city light reminded me that I was back to earth again.

Behold the silver dragon that transforms into raindrops and showers down from the sky.
I search for the source of the stream through the mountain mist,
A journey with ever-changing scenery, like travelling between heaven and the nether world.
Deep in the dewdrops-covered recess of the secluded Ng Tung ravine,
the lonely waterfall by the overhanging cliff, like a lotus flower in solitude.”

I still recalled the early days when I was a beginner to hiking and mountaineering. I was already attracted to the sparkling mountain streams and waterfalls at the valley bottom during the hiking trips, wishing that one day I would be able to get close to these beautiful falls and cool waters. Stream trekking required experience as well as technique, and as a layman to stream trekking, I did not want to get hurt by any reckless attempt. Until one day, when my aunt, who was also a hiking enthusiast, said to me, “Why not try the Ng Tung Stream?”

Located deep in the valley of Lam Tsuen, the rugged and steep ravine of Ng Tung Stream consisted of overhanging cliffs and scree, and certainly not an easy route to tackle. However, since a hiking trail had been built along the ravine and all the dangerous spots were bypassed, the waterfall trip was in fact a safe and pleasant trail-walking journey. The hiking trail ended at the top of the Long Falls, therefore I had no luck to see the legendary Maiden Falls. That was my first serious stream-visiting trip, and Ng Tung had remained at the top of my list of favourite streams ever since.


After gaining enough experience and confidence by joining several group stream-trekking training, I came back to the valley of Lam Tsuen, this time ready for a trek of the Ng Tung Stream to its source. It was an unforgettable trip, not only because I had for the first time completed a stream trekking trip all the way to the source, but also the indissoluble bond with streams and waterfalls with which I had since then built.

It is raining outside. Looking out from the window, the Tai Mo Shan nearly disappears completely in the mist. The waterfalls over there must be spectcular by now.



泉。音。瀑。影

偶然地翻閱一些舊檔案,發現了一篇自己多年前的塗鴉之作,又想起早年的一次溯溪之旅。那是一個多雨的夏天…

“盛夏到訪林村谷梧桐石澗,清晨由梧桐寨村萬德苑出發,溯溪而上。昨夜雨後,翠谷中仍雲霧縈繞,山峰在霧中若隱若現,如蓬萊仙山;谷中崖上群瀑如翠屏掛緞。遍訪梧桐中下諸瀑,「井底瀑」深藏巨洞,如地府寒泉;「馬尾瀑」明快亮麗,水汽氳氤,如夢中仙境。一路上泉畔聽瀑,潭中暢泳,走走停停,到達主瀑時已是正午。

坐在瀑前石台,仰望百呎飛瀑如銀河落九天,一面野餐,一面賞瀑,實在令人心懭神怡。意猶未盡,再涉澗而上,一探上源幽谷中如出水芙蓉之玉女群瀑,至源未登上大帽山時,已近黃昏,望山下華燈初上,又回到了人間。


銀龍化雨灑天階,撥霧尋源穿三界, 
 梧桐幽深沾寒露,寂寞芙蓉伴斷崖。”

還記得早在開始參與登山遠足活動的初期,每次看到遠處山谷中的飛流秀瀑,總是十分嚮往,盼望有天能親臨其下,近距離細賞其流態,感受其清涼。溯溪是一項要求有一定技巧和經驗的活動,所以也不敢貿然嘗試,直至有一天,得到同是熱愛遠足的姑母的提點:「何不嘗試一探梧桐群瀑?」

林村谷中的梧桐石澗,澗道崎嶇,斷崖連連,溯溪探瀑,本是難度頗大,但因為澗道旁闢有山徑,山徑沿溪而上,繞過所有險峻位置。遊梧桐石澗,其實就是沿山徑登山賞瀑,以安全的方式近距離賞遊險峻的澗內風光。因為山徑只通到中游長瀑頂上,傳說中的玉女飛瀑,始終無緣一見。那是我第一條細心賞遊的溪澗,也一直是我最喜愛的溪澗。

之後一段時間,參與過多次團體組織的溯溪活動,有了足夠的經驗和信心,又重回到林村谷中,準備好全溯梧桐石澗。那是一次難忘的經歷,不單只是第一次真正沿溪全溯至源頭,而且自此之後,我更與溪流飛瀑,結下了不解之緣。

外面又下起大雨,望出窗外維港對岸迷濛中的大帽山,心想,帽山諸澗的飛瀑,一定又很壯觀了吧。