雷雨在深秋

「立冬」早己過，今天已是農曆二十四節氣中「小雪」的日子，太陽到達黃經240度。雖然香港地處亞熱帶，十一月下旬，也理應是深秋時分，但氣溫還是如夏末初秋。今年的十月異常溫暖，平均氣溫高達26.4度，而平均每日最低氣溫是24.7度，兩者皆平了23年前所創的最高紀錄。昨天午飯過後，天昏地暗，竟然還如盛夏般下起大雷雨，雷電交加達半小時以上，超過100毫米的雨量，令天文台發出黃雨暴雨警，成為歷來首次在11月發出的黃雨暴雨警告。到了夜深，依然不時聽到雷聲隆隆，根據天文台的預報，狂風雷暴還會持續一天。真不敢相信，原來冬天已經快到了。

近年不斷出現的天氣反常，幾乎已經被視為正常。不同季節的野花同時盛開，候鳥的遷徙時間表也打亂了；一些地方酷熱大旱，另一邊廂卻因暴雨令洪水泛濫，甚至狂風暴雪。今年澳洲中部夏天酷熱非常，高溫乾燥，但東南部的維多利亞州，卻在夏天下雪了，令人不禁想起電影《明日之後》裡的情節...我們的地球很明顯發生了問題，但是到底人們要到什麼時候才會正視？

He Ain't Heavy, He's My Brother

He Ain't Heavy, He's My Brother

因為要通宵工作，夜深人靜，我戴上了耳機，放一張節奏比較慢的舊歌CD，一面聽一面做。耳機傳來一首The Hollies的70年代歌曲，歌聲在口琴伴奏聲中響起... 　


　The road is long, With many a winding turn　
　That leads us to who knows where, Who knows where　
　But I'm strong, Strong enough to carry him　
　He ain't heavy, he's my brother 　

　So on we go, His welfare is of my concern　
　No burden is he to bear, We'll get there　
　For I know, He would not encumber me　
　He ain't heavy, he's my brother 　

　 人生的道路漫長，有著太多的曲折蜿蜒 　
　 前路茫茫，不知何處是終點 　
　 但是我氣力充沛，強得足以揹負他上路 　
　 他並非我負累，他是我兄弟
　
　 就這樣我們繼續向前，我在乎的是他的福祉 　
　 他根本不算是重擔，我們最終會到達目的地 　
　 因為我知道，他不會牽絆住我 　
　 他並非我負累，他是我兄弟…

好多年前有一個某大名牌電腦的電視廣告，畫面上只見一群大象在一片起伏的黃沙中前進。一隻落單的小象，因筋疲力盡，無法攀上沙丘頂，一隻大象趕來到牠身後，用鼻子把牠往上推，小象終於上了沙丘頂，追上象群繼續上路.....背景的音樂，是口琴聲中的"He ain't heavy, he's my brother"－「他並非負累，他是我兄弟」。

當年我看這個廣告時，每次歌聲響起，心裡都不期然一陣悸動。今晚重聽這首歌，那種感覺依然。 這歌詞中的名句，據說是源自1924年美國一本關懷兒童團體的雜誌上的一篇專欄文章，文章描述一個身材瘦弱的小男孩，揹負著他的弟弟，吃力地橫過馬路走向公園。對於路人的關心，他只微笑著回答"He ain't heavy, he's my brother"。40年代美國關注兒童機構Boys Town創辦人費納根神父(Father Edward J. Flanagan)為了建立一個機構來收容和關懷社會上遭到遺棄的孩童，努力募捐，這些原本非親 非故 的孩童，在他心目中都是他的親弟妹， “He ain't heavy” 亦是他常掛在口邊的名言。

我是家中的老大，比二弟長兩歲，但幼弟與我年紀卻相差了整整十年。幼弟剛入學唸幼兒班時，家中環境並不富裕，父母都要外出工作，每天放學後，就由我負責到幼兒院接他回家。每次走到那長長的樓級前時，幼弟都一定嚷著要我抱。雖然我已經升上中三，但自小矮細瘦弱，幼弟又屬於特別快高長大一類，抱著他走下長長的樓級，其實都頗為吃力，但我卻樂此不疲，每天重覆著。也許呵護年幼弟妹，就是每個做大哥大姐的天性吧。

早年本地大學位不足，父母克勤節儉地為我們兄弟儲起了一點教育基金，希望我們畢業後能繼續海外升學。一般收入的家庭，供一個兒子留學已經很吃力，海外升學的機會，通常都會落在幼子身上，長子只有提早工作、幫補家庭的份兒。我的父母持著「每個兒子都平等」的態度，我先畢業就我先放洋，弟弟畢業是幾年後的事，到時候也應該可以有足夠能力應付。但事實上由於種種原因，幾兄弟中到了外國留學的，只有我一個，主要是本地多了大學學位，而我的弟弟們天資都比我好得多，可以從容地考上本地大學。我在外國留學的幾年，正是我幼弟成長的關鍵時期，到現在我都一直很遺憾，我不能在他身邊盡長兄的責任。二弟性格比較內向古肅，對幼弟只會嚴厲管束而不擅於循循善誘，現在幼弟不擅處理人際關係和帶點反叛的性格，恐怕與此不無關係。我經常在想，如果我沒有去留學，情況會否完全不同。

畢業後一直只能找到合約工作，幼弟對於自己現在的前景，有點茫茫然。父母都頗擔心，卻苦無方法溝通，因為幼弟唯一肯溝通的對象，就只有我。我真的很想對他說，有大哥在，不要緊的。

當我再次聽到這首歌時，腦海中不期然又浮現出小時候抱著幼弟走下下那長長的樓級時的情景…

　　It's so long long road from there is no return　
　　While we're on the way together why not share　
　　And the load doesn't weigh me down at all　
　　He ain't heavy, he's my brother.

　　漫漫長路， 只能前進，沒有回頭　
　　既然都在同一條路上，應該甘苦與共 　
　　這肩膀上的責任，一點也不令我感到疲累 　
　　他並非我負累，他是我兄弟。

知床旅情(三)-雙瀑篇 A Journey to Shiretoko (3)-Twin Falls

知床旅情(三)-雙瀑篇

知床半島的天氣變化得很快，本來還有點陽光，轉眼便烏雲密佈，颳起大風，在斜里轉乘巴士到青年旅舍時，還開始下起大雨來。六月初的北海道其實仍然頗冷，不單止高地上積雪未融，就算在海平面的高度，颳起風時，仍能感受到一陣陣寒意。

差不多整個知床半島都是國家公園的範圍，部份道路有車輛管制，行走的巴士也不多，七八月以外的非旅遊旺季，班次更是稀疏。青年旅舍在岩尾別川下游、知床半島的中央部份，每日只有班次稀疏的巴士經過。半島沿岸大都是高聳的懸崖，知床連峰的溪流注入大海前，在崖壁上形成無數大大小小的瀑布，是名符其實的山海飛瀑景觀。計劃中是乘巴士往青年旅舍時在中途下車，參觀其中一處著名的山海瀑布「オシンコシンの滝」，再乘一小時後最後的一班巴士到青年旅舍。巴士在寒風冷雨中行駛，正在思量著是否依然按計劃中途下車，車窗前忽然現出一道壯闊的瀑布，立即毫不猶疑地按響了停車鈴。

瀑布就在路邊不遠處，可能不是旅遊旺季，加上天氣關係，遊客不多。旅遊車送來了的一批日本遊客，都湧到紀念品店裡去了。我不打算光顧，無謂阻礙了別人做生意，沒有進內。站在店外的屋簷下哆嗦著，陪伴我避雨的只有店主養的肥貓，也許牠也嫌店內太擠擁，走出來透透氣吧。終於等到雨勢稍停，幾個箭步就衝上了泥濘滿佈的步道，直奔瀑前。

落差50米的「オシンコシンの滝」是知床八景之一、日本百大名瀑之一，又稱「双美の滝」 (雙美瀑布)，亦稱夫妻瀑布，原因是瀑布由兩道平行的瀑水組成。雨後的瀑布，更為壯觀，不單只瀑前揚起陣陣氤氳，原本並排的雙子瀑，已變成上半的三瀑和下半連成一幅的瀑水，就像一位在日本傳統「神前式」婚禮上的新娘，穿上潔白絲綢花嫁禮服「白無垢」，拖著裙擺緩步踏上神壇。
原本還可以沿山路繞到山上，從另一個角度觀賞瀑布，但因為等候停雨時躭誤了不少時間，加上大雨後山路泥濘一片，還是放棄了。

A Journey to Shiretoko (3) – Twin Falls

The weather in Shiretoko peninsula could change dramatically, jumping from sunshine to rainstorm in a few minutes’ time on my way to the youth hostel at Iwaobetsu. It was still rather cold in Hokkaido early in June. The mountains are still snow capped, and I could feel the chill even staying at low ground.

The youth hostel by the Iwaobetsu River bank at central Shiretoko could be reached by bus. Most parts of the peninsula were countrypark land, and traffic was under strict control. Except in July and August, there were very few bus services in the park each day. Lined by the shoreline cliffs, Shiretoko peninsula is a paradise of coastal waterfalls. Streams of the Shiretoko Mountains plunged down from the cliff tops before running into the sea. My original plan was to get off the bus and visit the Oshinkoshin Fall on my way to the hostel, and hopped on another bus one hour later. The bus moved on in the chilly rain. Just when I was hesitating on whether I should change my plan or not, a wide and roaring waterfall came into my sight through the window all of a sudden. This surely did helpe me to make up my mind.

The waterfall was located right beside the road. There were few visitors at the time, but they had all crowded into the souvenir shop. I was not planning to but anything so I just waited outside for the rain to stop, side-by-side with the fat cat which probably had just escaped from the over-crowded shop. The rain started to die down a bit. I took no time to waste and ran straight to the waterfall.

The 50-meter-high waterfall was one of the eight famous sights of Shiretoko and classified as one of the top 100 Japanese waterfalls. It is also known as the "Twin Beauty Falls" and "Husband-and-wife Falls" due to the two parallel water streams that made up the waterfall. After the heavy rain, the waterfall became even more spectacular, not only covered by the sprays sent out by the falling water, but the twin falls now transformed into triplets, with the lower parts merging into a lace curtain of water, resembling a Japanese bride at a traditional Shinto wedding ceremony on her pure white silk shiromuku (the traditional wedding kimono).
There was a trail leading uphill to another viewing platform for the waterfall, but I had to give up the side trip since the trail was extremely muddy and too much time had already been wasted on waiting for the rain to stop.

知床旅情(二)-趕路篇 A Journey to Shiretoko (2)–Getting There

知床旅情(二)-趕路篇

由於香港直飛北海道千歲機場的機票十分昂貴，我採取了飛東京成田機場再轉火車北上的迂迴路線。知床地處日本東北盡頭，全程中途要接駁五次火車一次巴士，行程漫長而緊湊，還要在火車上過夜，但既然已經買了JR火車證，又可以節省一晚的住宿錢，我又是個任何環境都可以睡得著的人，何樂而不為。以前獨遊歐洲的時候，情況再惡劣十倍都捱過了，相比起來，在日本乘夜班火車旅行，仍算是十分安全舒服的事。

自己在外地旅行時，經常利用夜班車，一來省掉白天趕路的時間，一覺醒來已到達下一個目的地，二來又可省掉住宿費。畢竟日本是個細小的國家，加上鐵路系統先進和發達，需要超過8小時的長途車，真是絕無僅有。要利用長途火車過夜，真是要花點心思安排。北海道的鐵路系統相對較疏落，造就了夜車渡宿的條件。

由東京北上的新幹線列車，終站在八戶，要到北海道，得先轉車去青森，再轉夜車上札幌。日本火車有寢台(即臥席)車廂，但附加費用驚人，比住一晚酒店還貴，當然不會考慮，一般都只會在普通車廂坐著睡。但原來青森至札幌的夜車，設有一節特別的臥席車廂，持有JR火車者證不需要額外付款，卻鮮有人知。JR急行"はまなす(Hamanasu)"號夜行列車，設有一節"のびのびカーペット"臥席車廂，因為只有一節，又不用附加費，所以名額經常被預訂一空。

"のびのびカーペット"臥席車廂內觀

"のびのびカーペット"一名源自"Nobi-nobi Carpet"，顧名思義，車廂內沒有床鋪，只在地台上鋪上地毯，大家排排臥，像睡榻榻米一般。地台雖然鋪了地毯，不習慣睡硬板床的朋友，可能會睡不安寧。

列車清晨6時到達札幌，車站內已經有不少趕車上班上學的人，日本人穿州過縣上班上學，也很普遍。由札幌到網走的車程，在田園間穿梭，是個頗愉快的旅程。由網走至知床斜里的釧網本線列車，開始進入知床半島的範圍，列車沿海岸行進，沿途經過保持天然的濕原潟湖，水鳥齊飛，遠處是初夏時節仍白雪蓋頂的知床連峰，好一幅如畫風景。

由東京成田機場下機開始計算，到達知床的斜里鎮，剛剛好用了24小15分鐘。

A Journey to Shiretoko (2) - Getting There

Due to the very expensive air ticket from Hong Kong to Hokkaido, I took a rather long and complicated route via Tokyo, Aomori to Sapporo. Shiretoko peninsula is the northern-east most territories of Japan, and the whole route was made up of 6 train rides and a bus ride, including a over-night ride on the train., but this was really nothing in comparison to my previous European trips. I had already brought the JR train pass, and I could save the hotel money too. That is what I normally do when I am travelling overseas as a backpacker.

The northwards Shinkansen super-express train from Tokyo stopped at Hachinohe, from where I needed to hop on another train to Aomori for another over-night train to Sapporo. They did have sleeping cars on the train, but it was so expensive that I would be better off staying in a hotel for the night. Unknown to many travellers, there is in fact another kind of sleeping car on the "Hamanasu" Over-night Express from Aomori to Sapporo. It is called the"Nobi-nobi Carpet". There is no extra charge for JR Pass holders to reserve a "Nobi-nobi Carpet" place. As its name suggests, the sleeping car is just a single long carpeted platform, and people sleep on it like the traditional Japanese tatami. It is very popular among the over-night travellers and reservation is highly recommended. Not suitable for people who get used to soft bed though.

The Hamanasu train arrived at the Sapporo station around 6 a.m. early in the morning, when the place was already packed with the early birds rushing to work or school. The train ride from Sapporo to Abashiri was rather pleasant as the train dashing through the countryside of northern Hokkaido. The scenic ride from Abashiri to Shiretoko Shari took me right into the gateway to the Shiretoko peninsula, running along the coast, passing through natural wetland reserve for waterfowls, and with the beautiful view of the snow capped Shiretoko Mountain Range as the back ground.

The amount of time took me from the Narita airport to the town of Shiretoko Shari ? 24 hours and 15 minutes exactly.

深秋蝶影 Autumn Butterflies

深秋蝶影

今年的秋天姍姍來遲，近日天氣突然轉涼，才驚覺原來早已過了立冬。前天到大欖一帶遠足，山上陣風吹來，已感到點點寒意。大欖郊野公園早前經山火蹂躪，滿目瘡痍，只有少片山谷水源地帶未受波及。穿過這些倖存的小樹林，赫然發覺有蝴蝶在聚集，溪澗中亦散佈著蝴蝶的屍骸。到底這是因為山火令棲息地被毀所造成的後果，還是正常的集體越冬的開始，一時也說不清。

聽朋友說，在山的那一邊，也見到蝴蝶聚集的情景，程度達至「漫山遍野」。蝴蝶漫山遍野的情景，自己也有見過，但是這樣的情況，通常在十二份才出現。

大部份的蝶類，到了冬天就會死亡，牠們完成了一生的使命－繁殖下一代後，已很虛弱，天氣一轉冷，便紛紛死亡。但也有蝶類以成蟲方式度過寒冬，這些蝴蝶會聚在一起集體越冬，為了避寒，會像候鳥一般集體遷移到南方，在溫暖山谷裡等待寒冬過去，香港某些地方，是牠們集體越冬的地點。牠們有的整個冬天都在香港停留，有的則只停留一段時間便繼續南飛，例如虎斑蝶。捱得過嚴冬，這些越冬的蝴蝶就可以在春天北飛回繁殖地繁衍下一代。

早年有幸跟隨蝴蝶專家饒戈到小冷水考察冬天蝴蝶谷，濛濛冷雨中，藍點紫斑蝶漫山遍野的掛滿樹梢，的確是自然奇觀，但更震撼的，是滿地覆蓋的蝴蝶屍骸，經過長途跋涉的飛行，以為可以避過凍僵的下場，但虛弱不堪的軀體，始終捱不過寒冬冷雨的煎熬。此情此景，令人不禁嘆息生命是那麼脆弱。

如果遇上集體越冬的蝴蝶,，還望大家只可靜靜細心觀察，千萬不要作不必要的打擾。有些人為了拍攝蝴蝶滿天飛的奇景，特意驚擾牠們，使牠們亂飛，但是這樣會令牠們消耗體力，提早死亡，無法在第二年春天繁殖下一代。

梁山伯與祝英台為愛殉情，死後化作翩翩彩蝶，脫離俗世的枷鎖，雙宿雙棲，何等浪漫。但現實中的蝴蝶，卻是何等的脆弱，要面對的，是何等殘酷的生存環境。

Autumn Butterflies

Autumn came late this year after the hottest October on record. Only when it suddently got cooler these days that I realized it was in fact already late fall. I could feel the coolness in the air while standing on the hill top during a hiking trip in the Tai Lam area two days ago. The Tai Lam Country Park was in a horrified state after the recent disastrous hill fire. In fact the entire area was burnt to the ground with total loss of trees, leaving only small patches of bushes un-touched near the gully floors. As I walked through these patches of surviving greenery, I saw quite a number of butterflies gathering in the bushes, and dead ones at the dried stream bed too. I had no idea if this was the result of the destruction of their natural habitat by the fire, or was just the beginning of the normal winter gathering habit of the butterflies.

According to my friend, there was a gathering of the butterflies on the otherside of territories too, so many that it could be described as “covering the entire hillside”. I had seen this kind of situation too, but that would normally happen in the late Decembers.

Most species of butterfly die in winter. After having completed their life cycle by laying down clusters of egg at the end of the season, they have come close to exhausting their life and strength, and die as the temperature drops. Some species do gather in flocks and survive the winter in their adult form. In order to escape from the cold weather, they migrate like birds, stay in the warmer valleys in the south until the winter ends. A few spots in Hong Kong have been known to be the sites of such “Winter Butterfly Valleys”. Some stay in these valleys for the whole winter, but some (like the Common Tigers) continue their southbound journey after staying for a few weeks. Only those survive the winter are able to produce their offsprings in the coming spring back in the north.

I have had the privillege to visit one of the winter butterfly valleys in Siu Lang Shui with the local butterfly specialist Vor Yiu years ago. In the winter drizzle, the sight of tens of thousand of Blue-spotted Crows hanging on trees all over the hill-side was turly spectacular, but the valley floor covered by thousands of died butterflies was a much more shocking scene. After flying for thousnads of miles and hoping to escape from death by freezing, their exhausted bodies were eventually unable to survive the cold winter shower. By looking at that horrifying scene, one could not stop thinking how fragile life could be.

In order to take photos of a spectacular scene, some people would make the exhausted butterflies fly by disturbing them. I strongly against this kind of activity, since that will be a further and fatal drain on their already weakening strength.

In the romantic Chinese legend of the Butterfly Lovers, Liang and Zhu ended their own life in order to escape from the controls of their fathers and the patriarchal society, and transformed into a pair of butterfly, staying togather forever. However, the survival of a butterfly is by no means close to romantic but brutal in real life.

一個平凡的日子，一個平凡的人 An Ordinary Day for an Ordinary Person

一個平凡的日子，一個平凡的人

對於很多人來說，今天只是一個平凡的日子，包括我自己。我在某年的今天呱呱墮地，但在過去幾世紀，在這天出生的人，不下數億，所以也不算甚麼特別的日子。今天我如常的一早起床上班，只是也會慶幸命運一直待我不薄。

其實我只是想說：多謝您們，爸、媽、弟弟們，以及所有在我生命路上一直伴我同行的各位。

An Ordinary Day for an Ordinary Person

Today is just an ordinary day for many people, and for me too. Billions of people was born in this very same day in the past centuries, including myself, so there is nothing special about it. Getting up early in the morning as usual, and go to work as usual, just be grateful that life has not been hard on me up to this very minute.

I just want to say, thank you so much, Mum and Dad, and my little brothers, and you all who have walked with me through life in these past years.

人生的樂章

人生的樂章

You by my side that's how I see us
I close my eyes and I can see us
We'll on our way to say "I do"
…
I see us now your hand in my hand
This is the hour, this is the moment
And I can hear sweet voices singing
Ave Maria, Ave Maria, Ave Maria.

婚宴中播起了羅渣士(Julie Rogers) 的著名歌曲「婚禮」(The Wedding) ，這首舊歌在香港近年又成了新人們的寵兒、婚宴中的必備歌曲。最初認識此曲，是方逸華主唱的國語版「花月佳期」。讀書時喜歡聽電台的懷舊金曲節目，初次聽到這首歌曲的旋律，已覺得很吸引，但只知是來自1966年版一張名為「小雲雀」的電影原聲帶唱片，後來才知道有英文版本。不過原來英文版本也不是原裝，它是取自阿根廷歌曲、Joaquim Prieto所作的 La Novia，意思即fiancèe(未婚夫/妻)。心想，如果某天自己結婚，婚宴上也要選播這首歌。

今天是我兩位朋友結婚的日子，認識兩位，是在自己兼任管理員的遠足網站，他們也是在遠足活動中走在一起，最初在一次留意到他們拍拖的，應該是我，當時我是那次野外活動的領隊。他們在大自然中約會，湖光山色中互相認識，到現在共諧連理，說句老套的說話，我見證了這段良緣的萌芽、成長、以至開花結果。宴會上坐滿四席的，都是一起登山涉水的朋友。

兩個人能夠走在一起，已是緣份，更是難得是志趣相投，最後墮入愛河，共諧連理，羨煞旁人。

人生的樂章中，可以是獨奏，更多的人是選擇的是二重奏，甚至大合奏，但無論如何，能夠選擇到自己喜愛的曲目和合奏伙伴，都是值得慶幸的事。不需要璀璨堂煌，簡潔清朗，一樣動聽。

重九浩劫

[明報圖片]


重九浩劫

「綠蔭裡，草坡上，讓我胸襟一再展；拋開了，心底倦，讓我走向大自然…」腦海中的歌聲一轉，忽然變了草木燃燒的啪啦卜碌的聲響…

每年重陽節，香港的山野例必火光熊熊。掃墓焚燒香燭冥鏹留下的火種、清理墓地雜草及為求「火燒旺地」故意放的火，遇上風高物燥的天氣，引致大大小小的山火，令消防、飛行服務隊和民安隊員疲於奔命。過去幾年，在大力宣傳下，情況有所改善，但今年似乎又捲土重來，重陽在元朗大棠燒起的火頭，在強勁的東北季侯風助虐下，一發不可收拾，漫延至大欖郊野公園，山火已經燒了三日兩夜，至今仍未能救熄。消防處懷疑山火是重陽掃墓市民留下的火種引起。

這是近十年來香港最嚴重的山火，兩條長達一公里半的火龍在張牙舞爪，焚毀面積至今超過四百公頃，六萬五千棵樹付諸一炬。消防和民安隊員仍在火場努力撲救，電視新聞鏡頭下所見，十多個小時翻山越嶺、馬不停蹄地撲火，臉上雖一片炭黑，仍難掩倦容。

據漁農自然護理署估計，要這片土地回復舊觀，至少要十年以上的時間，在這片郊野土地內棲息的果子狸及豹貓等動物，若能有幸逃出火海，亦要面臨無家可歸。

由於地質貧瘠的關係，大欖一帶風化嚴重，早年全是光禿禿的一片山頭。根據漁護署高級農林助理陳先生的回憶，大欖於70年代開始植林，由零開始，當時植林人員每日揹過百棵樹苗，烈日當空下徒步兩小時上山種植，很多新入職的員工做了半天便熬不住辭職，艱苦程度不足為外人道。過去十年，自己亦一直有參加義務植樹護林的工作，植林人員的辛勞，深有體會。

今次山火主要在植林區內發生，幾年前亦曾經在大欖郊野公園參與植林活動，親手搬運並植下多株樹苗，雖然不知火場是否包括當年植樹的地點，看到電視鏡頭下火光熊熊的樹林，心中也不禁戚然。想像得到植林人員眼見當年辛苦植下一株株樹苗、漸成熟的樹林打回原形，多年努力的心血毀於一旦，他們的心痛和耿耿於懷，感同身受。

「讓青苗，天天大，願這花草不會損；願火苗，速消滅，綠化郊野每林園。在美麗林蔭深處，鳥聲在慢慢轉，山水之間種靈氣，願清新莫改變。」哼到這裡，喉嚨忽然一陣哽咽，竟然唱不下去。一首兒時舊歌，想不到令自己有這麼大的感觸。

人生的樂章

You by my side that's how I see us

I close my eyes and I can see us
We'll on our way to say "I do"
…
I see us now your hand in my hand
This is the hour, this is the moment
And I can hear sweet voices singing
Ave Maria, Ave Maria, Ave Maria.

婚宴中播起了羅渣士(Julie Rogers) 的著名歌曲「婚禮」(The ｗedding) ，這首舊歌在香港近年又成了新人們的寵兒、婚宴中的必備歌曲。最初認識此曲，是方逸華主唱的國語版「花月佳期」。讀書時喜歡聽電台的懷舊金曲節目，初次聽到這首歌曲的旋律，已覺得很吸引，但只知是來自1966年版一張名為「小雲雀」的電影原聲帶唱片，後來才知道有英文版本。不過原來英文版本也不是原裝，它是取自阿根廷歌曲、Joaquim Prieto所作的 La Novia，意思即fiancèe(未婚夫/妻)。心想，如果某天自己結婚，婚宴上也要選播這首歌。

今天是我兩位朋友結婚的日子，認識兩位，是在自己兼任管理員的遠足網站，他們也是在遠足活動中走在一起，最初在一次留意到他們拍拖的，應該是我，當時我是那次野外活動的領隊。他們在大自然中約會，湖光山色中互相認識，到現在共諧連理，說句老套的說話，我見證了這段良緣的萌芽、成長、以至開花結果。宴會上坐滿四席的，都是一起登山涉水的朋友。

兩個人能夠走在一起，已是緣份，更是難得是志趣相投，最後墮入愛河，共諧連理，羨煞旁人。

人生的樂章中，可以是獨奏，更多的人是選擇的是二重奏，甚至大合奏，但無論如何，能夠選擇到自己喜愛的曲目和合奏伙伴，都是值得慶幸的事。不需要璀璨堂煌，簡潔清朗，一樣動聽。

情與景

情與景　

乘搭公共交通工具時，經常都看見乘客們塞著耳筒在聽MP3，自己很少這樣做，因為覺得欣賞音樂，環境的配合與否，影響確實是很大。耳邊響起的是《高山流水》，眼前卻是擠得像沙甸魚般的乘客；聽著情意綿綿的情歌，旁邊的一對情侶卻正在吵架；任憑你想像力如何豐富，也真的很難投入那音樂的意境。藝術展覽館內通常都是燈光昏暗，展品只有射燈照明，雖然不是把配合主題的環境重現，但起碼留給參觀者的想像力一個空間，讓其發揮。

參與長跑活動已有一段時間，平時練習，尤其是操練長課時，倒也有一邊跑一邊聽MP3的習慣。目的當然不是為了欣賞音樂，只是漫長的兩小時中，腳在機械般地動著，心中總不成持續一片空白，所以耳邊要有點聲響調劑一下。記得有一次在船灣淡水湖跑步，由大尾篤沿湖邊跑入新娘潭，當時正值深秋時份，路兩邊的楓香樹已滿目丹紅，部份已轉黃在落葉，風吹起枯葉在沙沙地響，耳邊的MP3剛響起維瓦爾第《四季組曲》小提琴協奏曲中的「秋天」，此情此景，好像忽然深切感受到作曲家創作此樂章時的心情。

大學時參加過合唱團，自己雖然喜歡古典音樂，但因先天不足，歌藝一向不敢恭維，參加合唱團，是為了滿足表演慾而又可避免到出醜，坦白點說，就是濫竽充數。合唱團每年有兩次公開演出，歐洲的合唱音樂起源自宗教聖樂，所以曲目中例必有宗教合唱音樂。那一年的曲目是莫札特的《小彌撒曲》Missa brevis in B-Dur KV275。彌撒曲是用自己一竅不通的拉丁文唱的，自己也不是教徒，練習時口中唱著聖曲，心卻無甚感覺。演出場地是大學附近的一座中古教堂，到了表演當日，我們站立在莊嚴的聖壇前演唱，古雅的教堂內迴響著風琴聲和我們彌撒曲的歌聲，忽然間心裡一陣感動，平時不覺怎麼樣的歌聲，好像變成了天籟一般。

曾經有段時期，台灣歌手黃品源的一首舊歌「你怎麼捨得我難過」是我最愛聽和唱的，不為什麼，只因當時正受感情銼折。

心境、音樂、情景的互動，的確是十分微妙。

知床旅情 A Journey to Shiretoko (1)

知床旅情(一)

今年初夏，當北海道大部份的高地仍為白雪覆蓋，我踏上了期待已久的知床半島旅程，日本最後的一片真正蠻荒之地。
知床一名來自愛奴語的「シルエトク」(sir etok)，意即「大地之盡頭」，或「大地突出之所」。知床半島位於北海道的東部，伸入鄂霍次克海中，貫穿半島中部的「知床連峰」是一系列高度超過1,500公尺的火山，其中包括了知床半島最高峰－1,661公尺高的羅臼岳。

早在1964年，知床半島已成為國立公園。它是日本最具原始自然美的地區之一。半島北端的知床岬地區，更是只能經水路或多日的步行才可到達。公園內是眾多野生物種如棕熊、蝦夷鹿、狐狸、虎頭海鵰、以及瀕臨絕種或當地特有的品種如毛腿漁鴞和知床菫等的天然生息地，對全球多種瀕危海鳥、候鳥、三文魚和海洋哺乳動物(如北太平洋海獅和部份鯨類)的生存繁衍亦十分重要。

因為知床半島在生態及生物多樣性方面不可替代的價值，2005年被正式列入聯合國世界自然遺產名單中。

A Journey to Shiretoko (1)

Early summer in 2006, when most parts of the highland of Hokkaido were still covered by snow, I took a trip to Shiretoko, one of the few remaining true wilderness in Japan.

Located on the easternmost portion of Hokkaido, the Shiretoko Peninsula protrudes into the Sea of Okhotsk and the Nemuro Straits. Running longitudinally through the peninsula, a series of volcanoes excessing 1,500m -high form the Shiretoko Renzan (Mountain Range), with the 1,661m-high Mt. Rausu (the highest peak on the peninsula) at the centre.

The name Shiretoko is derived from shiruitoku, an Ainu language word meaning "the end of the land" or "the place where the earth protrudes".

The peninsula was declared a National Park in 1964. It is one of Japan's most beautiful and unspoiled regions. The northern tip (Shiretoko Cape) is only accessiable by boats or by multi-day trekking. It is the home to a variety of wildlife, including the brown bears, the sika dears, the foxes, the Steller's sea eagles, the endangered Blackiston's Fish owl and the Viola kitamiana plant. It is also globally important for threatened sea birds and migratory birds, and for a number of marine mammals, including the Steller's Sea Lions.

In 2005, Shiretoko Peninsula was added to UNESCO's World Natural Heritage Sites List for the irreplaceable value of the peninsula's ecosystem and biodiversity.

Meeting the Muses

Meeting the Muses

忽然很想寫一些關於藝術美學的感覺。藝術一詞，涉獵廣泛，可以是一切由人對事物的創造表現或模擬再現，表達形式也可以是有形或無形。美學，籠統地說，就是對事物美的感覺和審定美的準則。

自己可以說是藝術的門外漢。如果硬要找出與藝術扯上關係的經驗，我倒有一些：小學時候最喜歡美術課，因為可以不用背書動腦筋；中學畢業時參加公開考試，為了湊足考科數目，也選了美術，為的也是不用讀書，只要交了畫作和素描部份的試卷，藝術史部份胡扯一通也可以合格過關；第一份正職與建築藝術有關，就是協助建立大學建築系的數碼圖像資料庫搜尋系統，每日都對著一大堆世界建築藝術精品的圖片。

有人會說，你就憑這些，竟然膽敢出來評論藝術? 當然不敢。其實人對美的感覺是與生俱來，每個人的感覺或有不同，也未必每個人都能表達出這種感受，又或提得出什麼理論，但對美的事物的讚賞和追求，人皆有之。專業理論我當然拿不出來，作為一個普通人的直覺和感受，我倒有一大堆，如果大家不怕沉悶，姑且讓我來胡扯一下吧。

有人的地方就有人造的事物，藝術美學在日常生活中無處不在。你覺得昂平的公眾廁所很有風格，某地下鐵月台的拼貼磁磚畫很搶眼，又或者IFC二期活像個電動鬚刨，其實你在不知不覺間已進行著有關建築和街頭美學的評論。

五十八件巴黎龐比度中心的珍藏，最近開始在香港藝術館展出，本想約朋友一起去參觀，但朋友的反應是「我沒什麼術細胞的呀」，最終還是自己獨個兒去了。展覽中不少像我一般「怎麼看也不像懂藝術」的參觀者，其中一個五六歲的小男孩，在母親帶領下参觀，不停地低聲發表著他對展品的觀感「這個公仔好得意(可愛)呀」「我不喜歡他塗藍色，紅色漂亮些啊」…。或者大家對他的評論不以為然，但那是沒有受美學訓練的影響、小孩子的最直接的感官，所以每當他對一件展品作出評論，我都特意多看一眼，看看我與他的感受，有什麼同與不同。

眾位大師的珍品中，最吸引我的，是羅馬尼亞現代雕塑先驅布朗庫西(Constantin Brancusi)於1910年創作的的青銅雕刻《沉睡的繆斯》(Sleeping Muse)－黑暗沉鬱的展場中央，一座質材明亮的作品，最簡約的雞蛋型狀，幾條流暢的曲線，雖然很抽象，但明顯感覺到一張沉睡中的面孔，眉目間給人平靜、和平的感覺，又像一具面相詳和的佛像。

繆斯(the Muses)正是希臘神話中的藝術九女神，掌管詩詞文學、歌唱音樂、戲劇、舞蹈等創作藝術，英文Museum(博物館)一字，亦源於希臘文Mouseion，即藝術之神的寶座(a seat or shrine of the muses)。 繆斯雖然沉睡了，看來仍然沒有停止鼓動創作者的靈感，牽動觀者的遐想。

不要再說自己沒有藝術細胞了，一起來以平常人的身份約會繆斯吧。

Lifetime Marathon 人生馬拉松 (2)

Lifetime Marathon (2)

I was never a strong person since I was a child, not even dare dreaming of myself becoming a runner. The P.E. class in school was meant to be a break for us students from the busy lesson schedule, but one of the subjucts - long distance running - was certainly a nightmare to me. I had to stop running each time I reached the 200m line, completely out of breath, accompanied by a painful stomach and strengthless legs. My P.E. teacher still let me pass the test, out of sympathy I guessed.

I started hiking regularly years later, and as a result becoming physcially fitter. Althought finishing the yearly 100km-long Oxfam Trailwalker walk-for-charity events was no longer a problem to me, I still could not run for any distance longer than 200m.

As part of the Trailwalker training, I finially start jogging 4 years ago. Still mixing running with walking at the beginning, but gradually manage to run non-stop for 1km, then 2km, 4km…eventually I was able to complete my first Nike 10km race by the end of the year. Still, completing a full marathon was omething beyond my imagination. I was not someone who would rash into things, therefore I took completing the half-marathon as my goal in the S.C. Hong Kong International Marathon in the following February. I had completed my very first full marathon 1 year later, and the full marathon in the coming Februaty will be my third.

Life is like a marathon race. It is not the momentary enjoyment of the feeling of speed that I am looking for, but to keep running to make it to the finish line.

It you ask me why I keep on joining the marathon race, it is because I am still able to do it, and feel good about it

人生馬拉松 (二)

自小身體孱弱，肺活量屬於標準以下，一早已認定自己不是跑步的材料。中學的體育課中，也有長跑訓練這一項，對我來說，也是最要命的項目。學校的體育課，其實也只是讓同學有機會離開課室鬆一鬆，體育老師只是略為講解一下，便讓我們自己繞著球場跑。每每跑到200米左右，便開始上氣不接下氣，下腹絞痛，雙腳發軟。因為長跑是體育課計分項目之一，所以不行也得捱下去，但就由跑步變慢行，直至老師吹哨子叫停。體育老師給我合格的分數，恐怕都是「勤力」分，再加一點「同情」分。

後來愛上了登山遠足，連動多了，體力有改善，也慢慢培養了出韌力，雖然日行四五十公里也可以應付，亦多次完成了樂施會一年一度的一百公里慈善遠足活動，但始終還是跑不起來，都是那一句，跑到200米左右便要慢下來。

四年多前，為了在毅行者活動的完成時間上有所改進，應隊友的要求，嘗試開始以慢跑練氣。起初仍是半跑半步行，慢慢地可以連續跑上一公里了，接著是兩公里、四公里…到年底時，已經可以完成我的第一個長跑賽事－Nike十公里。

雖然有了信心，但自已不是一個一步登天的人。完成全程馬拉松，對我來說仍然是遙不可及。接著的渣打香港國際馬拉松，我只參加了半馬拉松，以此為練習目標。接著是一年後的美津龍半馬，終於在去年完成了我一生中的第一個全程馬拉松。明年二月，將會是我第三次參加全程馬拉松了。

由於自己身體條件所限，同時又較遲才起步，所以不會勉強自己有大的突破。對我來說，生活也像一場馬拉松，不求一時的快速衝刺的感覺，而是要準確知道自己的能耐，保持均速，到達終點。

如果問我為什麼每年都繼續參加馬拉松？因為覺得自己仍然有能力做得到，因為感覺良好。

Lifetime Marathon 人生馬拉松(1)

Web photo ©K.S.Down

Lifetime Marathon (1)

Shortly after the closing of the registration for the Nike 10K race, here comes the registration for the Hong Kong S.C. International Marathon next year. As usual, the network connection to the online registration servers was badly congested. Although Hong Kong is a highly competitive society, running is never very popular as a challenge and competitive sport, except for a bunch of enthusiasts and sportsmen. For most people, running (or more appropriately, jogging) is just a convenient way to keep yourself fit and healthy.

The recent raise in popularity of long distance running has made it more like a carnival event of the city than a sport competition gathering. Good or bad, it is really hard to say, as it depends on what is in the mind of the participant.

Most people in Hong Kong jog every day just for keeping fit. There is no difference in nature between an hour's jog in the park after work and the morning walk of their elderly parents. Some like it done with friends and neighbours, some prefer doing it in solitude with the help of the earphone set and loud MP3 music. Nevertheless, as "how long or how fast have the others run" is concerned, it's none of my business. If we take away the negative factor of air pollution (sigh!), any kind of moderate and adequate amount of exercise is surely good for our health.

For many others, running is a favourite socializing activity. It doesn't matter if it is on the outdoor Tartan tracks at the sport ground or the indoor treadmills in a fitness club, the purpose is clear : tapping information from and socializing with friends, and hopefully meeting more new friends. Since you can not just stand there when all others are running (as this will be too obvious, ha ha), you do gain something after all – some exercises. But beware of the unexpected side effect : you might gain even more – weight, as a snack or a drink after the jog is rather common among friends.

However, the recent sharp raise in popularity of the sport is just the result of "Be Trendy". Since sponsoring public event is a well known advertising tactic, it will not be surprising to see the push by the sponsoring parties in order to make the events a city carnival and the talk of the town. Image when everyone around you talks about joining the event, and pop stars' participation has become news headlines, how out-of-date people will think you are if you are unable to say "I have joined too". So what you will see are so many first-timers who have not even jogged once before the event, exhausted or even injured, on the day of the race. There are also many participants who know their limits, never plan to finish the race but to hop on the buses heading for the finishing point right after having a photo taken on the Tsing Ma Bridge.

Of course, there are always the most original and proper reasons for participating a sport event – for the great physical challenge to oneself and the fellow sportsmen, the prize and glory, or simply for the self-confidence and self-worthiness. However, since not everyone is born a sportsman, exceeding one's physical limits might result in permanent damage. Is this really worthed? Views and opinions do vary from individual to individual.

Indeed Life is like a marathon. We all have different goals, and it is quite all right. The important thing is to know clearly what your goals are, and not just following the others around you. At the same time, you got to know your own limits, and understand the price you might have to pay. It doesn't matter if you take it as a dynamic or a means-to-achieve in your life, as long as it does not hurt any other people, and you think the price paid is worthed, the term "Right Thing to Do" does not apply.

人生馬拉松(一)

前一陣子，Nike十公里長跑報名剛完結，渣打香港國際馬拉松的報名又開始了，接上網上報名伺服器的連線又例牌的大擠塞。雖然香港是個充滿競爭的社會，但一般香港人跑步，目的主要是保持身體健康，比賽挑戰時間，只是發燒友運動員的專利。近年香港興起參與長跑比賽活動，長跑的性質，己成為城中盛事，多於運動比賽。是好是壞，其實難下結論，要看參與者的目的。

正如上面所說，很多人跑步，純粹為保持健康，下班後晚飯前到樓下公園跑一小時，就好像老人家每天晨運一樣。有人喜歡與世隔絕地、戴上MP3耳機只顧自己跑，亦有人喜歡呼朋喚友一起跑。但其他人跑多快多長，似乎與自己毫無關係。運動只要是不過量，如果除去香港空氣污染的負影響(嘆氣!)，持之以恆，對身體當然是有益。

對另一些人來說，跑步是社交活動，不論是到體育館跑泰坦跑道，還是在健身俱樂部跑步機(這類應該是佔多數)，目的都是一樣：見見朋友，談談天，收收風，又或者認識更多新朋友。只是在過樣的場合，大家在跑，你總不能只站著(這樣的話你的目的就完全暴露了，呵呵)，於是有意無意間，你也在做運動。不過小心跑步之後的餘慶節目－大吃大喝，隨時可能出不抵入，越跑越胖。

不過近年香港興起參與長跑比賽活動，很多卻是因為「趕潮流」。贊助活動還不是為了賣廣告，贊助商為了宣傳效果，刻意把活動催谷成為城中盛事、任何人都可以參與的嘉年華。當身邊的人都在訑談論已經報了名、而傳媒又大字標題「某某明星歌手都有參加」的時候，你卻搭不上嘴，那肯定會被認為是很落伍。於是很多人一次也未練習過便去跑，體力不繼、虛脫、受傷，層出不窮，健康運動變成傷身運動；另一些人則比較理智，根本就沒有打算完成，早已計劃好到青馬大橋拍完紀念照後，便乘大會專車回鉖點。

當然，不論贊同與否，體育運動最原始最「正統」的目的，就是挑戰自己挑戰別人，奪取榮耀，或純粹令自己有所提昇，肯定自己的價值。但畢竟不是人人都具天生的運動員條件，勉強自己超越身體的極限，換來日後陪伴終生的傷患，值得與否，是仁者見仁。

其實長跑也好，做人也好，目標每個人都會不同，但這不要緊，重要的是知道自己在做什麼，切忌盲從，人云亦云；也要清楚自己的能力，及需要付出的代價。當作是動力也好，手段也好，只要不傷害別人，自己又覺得是值得，就無所謂正確不正確。

Floating Village within a Metropolis 繁華都市中的水鄉風情

Floating Village within a Metropolis

Start functioning since 1883, the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter is the oldest among the many typhoon shelters in Hong Kong, It used to be the most colourful and lively hub of floating restaurants at night, serving delicious seafood and fishermen-style congee (rice porridge) prepared by the fishermen at their "kitchens-on-the-sea", accompanied by the songs performed on tiny floating stages.

After several large-scale reclamations and the construction of the Island Eastern Corridor, the size of the Typhoon Shelter shrinked considerably, and so was the floating restaurant business. Still, its unique waterfront landscape and atmosphere of a floating village within a metropolis somehow manages to linger on.

However, the recent draft Wan Chai North Outline Zoning Plan has proposed a further 2-hectare reclamation along the waterfront for a Harbour Park, which would permanently change the face of the waterfront landscape. Although the Harbour Park proposal was later removed from the OZP, the proposed Central-Wan Chai Bypass and the Island Eastern Corridor Link still require "adequate extent" of reclamation within the typhoon shelter, not to mention the addition of a artificial sandy beach.

In any case, the unique waterfront landscape of the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter will be lost permanently.


繁華都市中的水鄉風情
香港多個避風塘中，銅鑼灣避風塘歷史最久，建成於1883年，也最有情調，這裡曾是十分熱鬧和特色的水上浮動餐廳，艇家在海上廚房即時炮製海鮮美食和艇仔粥，顧客亦可以隨興點唱小曲。經過幾次大規模填海，又修築了東區走廊，避風塘越縮越小，夜遊船河亦日漸衰微，但銅鑼灣避風塘仍具繁華都市中難覓的水鄉風情。

灣仔北分區計劃大綱打算在銅鑼灣避風塘防波堤向外填海2公頃建「 海心公園」，避風塘風貌將被改變，雖然海心公園最終被刪除，但計劃中的中環灣仔繞道連接東區走廊，仍需在避風塘內灣作「適量」填海，甚至有人工海灘。

無論如何，銅鑼灣避風塘的原本風貌，都將會被改變。

Doesn't Matter If It Is … 不管…還是…都…

網上圖片 Image from the web


不管…還是…都…
論「最緊要實際」

鄧伯爺：不管白貓黑貓，抓住老鼠都是好貓。
　　- 已故中國領導人鄧小平論「實事求是」的經典語錄。

煲呔曾：不管姓「強」還是姓「良」，只要政策能達到社會共識、立法可取及公眾支持，都一樣接受。
　　- 香港特首曾蔭權回應前政務司司長陳方安生對他「強政勵治不等同有良政」的批抨。

傳聞亞扁嫂：不管穿「外」還是「內」，都算國務機要費。
(廣東話版 – 唔理著「面」定著「底」，一於入國務機要費。)　　- 台灣總統府的國務機要費賬目，居然包括陳水扁妻吳淑珍與女兒的女性衛生用品和內褲。


Doesn't Matter If It Is …
Quotes On "Practicalism"

Grandpa Teng : Doesn't matter if it is white or black. As long as the cat catches mice, it is a good cat.
- Infamous quote from the late Chinese leader Deng Xiaoping.
Bowtie Tsang : Doesn't matter if it is called strong governance or good governance, I take the one that is backed by good policies, public support, and able to strive for social consensus.
- Hong Kong SAR Chief Executive Donald Tsangi’s response to former chief secretary for administration Anson Chan's assertion that "strong governance was not quite a factor for good governance".
Ah Bien's wife (allegedly) : Doesn't matter if it is undies or punch, put that under Presidential Office's State Affairs Fund!
- Items found in the ledger of Presidential Office's State Affairs Fund in Taiwan : Ladies underwaers and sanitary pads for the wife and daughter of President Chen Shui Bien.

廣東話的智慧(一)

廣東話的智慧(一)

最近在地下鐵的月台看到一系列頗有趣的廣告，主題是教人一些廣東話用字的正確寫法。千百年來中原地方都是中華大地統治權力的中心，正統的中文書寫文字，都以那裡的語言為依據，邊地「蠻夷」民族的語言，毋須理會，所以方言詞語往往沒有書寫的正字。學校的正統中文教育，亦不鼓勵學生以方言作文，主要是因為方言的地域局限性，不利於不同地域的華人的文字溝通。

不過以方言入文，亦有一定市場，原因之一是方言往往是生活化的產物，比較生動活潑，言簡意賅，看得懂的人會特別覺得「過癮」。近年中、港、台交流頻繁，港、台方言用語難免「入侵」正統的文字媒介，成為華人的共通用語。但要書寫方言，因為苦無正字，很多人都仍只能同音字或近音字代替，甚至要出動英文字母拼音。香港人以廣東話為主，最喜歡胡亂挑一同音字，加上一個「口」字旁，就當作正字寫下來。其實作為一種方言，廣東話屬於比較特別的一類，因為廣東話之中原來包含了不少古漢語，只是這些古漢語在中原地方因為逐漸少用而被遺忘，卻在被認為是偏遠地區的廣東被保留了下來。所以很多廣東話詞語，其實是可以用正字書寫的，絕大部份以廣東話為母語的人，也不會知道，反而以為見慣了的同音別字才是正確。

廣東話常用的詞語「捐窿捐罅」，是個典型例子，意即「無處不到、連最細微的地方也不放過」。「捐」在這裡是鑽進的意思，而捐字又剛好是個動詞，很多人會想當然地以為這就是正字，怎知道原來正確的寫法應是「瓹窿瓹罅」，瓹是盆底的孔，亦作動詞用，解作鑽、穿。

不過最令人啼笑皆非的還是個「搵」字，「搵」是「尋找」、「開發」的意思，早已是個公認的正字。香港是個商業社會，服務性行業也是主要經濟支柱，經營生意最重要是「搵客」，很多服務性行業的從業員也要主動「搵客」，找不到顧客就無法維持經營。不過原來「搵客」應該是寫作「捃客」，「捃」是尋找，發音Kwen2，剛好與廣東俗語「滾」近音。但「滾」是騙的意思，如果希望為你提供服務或產品的營業員在你面前不斷說要「滾」你，不知感受會如何呢？

不過俗語有云，無奸不商，「捃客」也好，「滾客」也好，字裡玄機，各自心領神會，說不定對方根本就是在說「滾客」呢，呵呵！

Bewitched by Waterfalls 泉音瀑影, 總教我著迷

B

E

W

I

BY WATERFALLS

C

H

E

D

Browsing through some of the old files recently, I accidentally re-covered a scribbled note, which reminds me of a stream trekking trip years ago. It was a rainy summer…

“On a mid-summer day, I set out for a visit to the Ng Tung Stream in the Lam Tsuen Valley. Starting at the Man Tak Villa in the Ng Tung Chai village, I scrambled up-stream along the ravine. After the rain in previous night, the green valley was still filled by mist, with peaks poking out like fairy islands floating on a sea of cloud. Waterfalls plunged down from clifftops like snow-white silk cloths hanging on jade screens. I had visited all the waterfalls in the ravine : the Well-bottom Falls, hidden within a huge cave, so gloomy as it was at the River Styx; the Horse-tail Falls, bright and cheerful, sending sprays high around the waterfall, creating a misty ethereal atmosphere. It took me almost half a day to reach the Long Falls, since I had made numerous stops on the way, just to enjoy the beauty of the waterfalls as well as to take dips into the crystal clear pools.

Sitting on a rock right in front of the Long Falls, I took my lunch while watching the 120-foot-long waterfall plunging down from the cliff top like the Milkyway pouring down from heaven. I continued to trek up-stream to the secluded ravine near the source of the stream, searching for the legendary Maiden Falls which had been described as ‘gentle and beautiful like a lotus flower emerging from the pool’. Finally when I reached the source of the stream and near the top of Tai Mo Shan, I was greeted by the sunset. Looking down from the mountain, the sparkling city light reminded me that I was back to earth again.

Behold the silver dragon that transforms into raindrops and showers down from the sky.
I search for the source of the stream through the mountain mist,
A journey with ever-changing scenery, like travelling between heaven and the nether world.
Deep in the dewdrops-covered recess of the secluded Ng Tung ravine,
the lonely waterfall by the overhanging cliff, like a lotus flower in solitude.”

I still recalled the early days when I was a beginner to hiking and mountaineering. I was already attracted to the sparkling mountain streams and waterfalls at the valley bottom during the hiking trips, wishing that one day I would be able to get close to these beautiful falls and cool waters. Stream trekking required experience as well as technique, and as a layman to stream trekking, I did not want to get hurt by any reckless attempt. Until one day, when my aunt, who was also a hiking enthusiast, said to me, “Why not try the Ng Tung Stream?”

Located deep in the valley of Lam Tsuen, the rugged and steep ravine of Ng Tung Stream consisted of overhanging cliffs and scree, and certainly not an easy route to tackle. However, since a hiking trail had been built along the ravine and all the dangerous spots were bypassed, the waterfall trip was in fact a safe and pleasant trail-walking journey. The hiking trail ended at the top of the Long Falls, therefore I had no luck to see the legendary Maiden Falls. That was my first serious stream-visiting trip, and Ng Tung had remained at the top of my list of favourite streams ever since.

After gaining enough experience and confidence by joining several group stream-trekking training, I came back to the valley of Lam Tsuen, this time ready for a trek of the Ng Tung Stream to its source. It was an unforgettable trip, not only because I had for the first time completed a stream trekking trip all the way to the source, but also the indissoluble bond with streams and waterfalls with which I had since then built.

It is raining outside. Looking out from the window, the Tai Mo Shan nearly disappears completely in the mist. The waterfalls over there must be spectcular by now.

泉。音。瀑。影

總

教

我

著

迷

偶然地翻閱一些舊檔案，發現了一篇自己多年前的塗鴉之作，又想起早年的一次溯溪之旅。那是一個多雨的夏天…

“盛夏到訪林村谷梧桐石澗，清晨由梧桐寨村萬德苑出發，溯溪而上。昨夜雨後，翠谷中仍雲霧縈繞，山峰在霧中若隱若現，如蓬萊仙山；谷中崖上群瀑如翠屏掛緞。遍訪梧桐中下諸瀑，「井底瀑」深藏巨洞，如地府寒泉；「馬尾瀑」明快亮麗，水汽氳氤，如夢中仙境。一路上泉畔聽瀑，潭中暢泳，走走停停，到達主瀑時已是正午。

坐在瀑前石台，仰望百呎飛瀑如銀河落九天，一面野餐，一面賞瀑，實在令人心懭神怡。意猶未盡，再涉澗而上，一探上源幽谷中如出水芙蓉之玉女群瀑，至源未登上大帽山時，已近黃昏，望山下華燈初上，又回到了人間。

銀龍化雨灑天階，撥霧尋源穿三界，　

　梧桐幽深沾寒露，寂寞芙蓉伴斷崖。”

還記得早在開始參與登山遠足活動的初期，每次看到遠處山谷中的飛流秀瀑，總是十分嚮往，盼望有天能親臨其下，近距離細賞其流態，感受其清涼。溯溪是一項要求有一定技巧和經驗的活動，所以也不敢貿然嘗試，直至有一天，得到同是熱愛遠足的姑母的提點：「何不嘗試一探梧桐群瀑？」

林村谷中的梧桐石澗，澗道崎嶇，斷崖連連，溯溪探瀑，本是難度頗大，但因為澗道旁闢有山徑，山徑沿溪而上，繞過所有險峻位置。遊梧桐石澗，其實就是沿山徑登山賞瀑，以安全的方式近距離賞遊險峻的澗內風光。因為山徑只通到中游長瀑頂上，傳說中的玉女飛瀑，始終無緣一見。那是我第一條細心賞遊的溪澗，也一直是我最喜愛的溪澗。

之後一段時間，參與過多次團體組織的溯溪活動，有了足夠的經驗和信心，又重回到林村谷中，準備好全溯梧桐石澗。那是一次難忘的經歷，不單只是第一次真正沿溪全溯至源頭，而且自此之後，我更與溪流飛瀑，結下了不解之緣。

外面又下起大雨，望出窗外維港對岸迷濛中的大帽山，心想，帽山諸澗的飛瀑，一定又很壯觀了吧。

True meanings of the Heart Sutra 心經的真義

True Meanings of the Heart Sutra

The Carving of Heart Sutra at Ngong Ping of Lantau Island consists of 38 10-meter-high timber columns carved with the calligraphy of the Heart of Prajña Paramita (Wisdom) Sutra from Professor Jao Tsung I, the master in studies of Chinese ancient civilization., To symbolize the Buddhist teaching of "That which is form is emptiness, That which is emptiness is form", there is a wordless column, namely the 23rd one, which was deliberately left blank.

The Carving of Heart Sutra project was completed and opened to the public in May 2005. In just more than a year's time, various problems started to appear on the timber columns, including spreading of wood-rotting fungi, worm-holes and cracking. One may still recall clearly the pledge from the government when tens of millions of dollars were spent on the project, promising that the advance technology of nanostructured coatings could preserve the wooden carving for at least a hundreds year. The explanation from the Architectural Services Department and Tourism Commission was that cracking on timber was a long existing natural phenomenon, and fungi growing on timber placed outdoor is nothing new either. However, no word was mentioned about the wormholes.

Under normal conditions, nanostructured coatings have to be re-applied every 3 to 5 years, due to the weathering effect of rain and sunlight. Problems appear much sooner than expected, indicating that it is very likely that the initial treatments of the timbers were not done properly.

Fungi start growing on top of some of the columns, some as big as the size of a palm, white or brown in colour, while others have wormholes. But the worst part of all is that cracks appear on all columns, and each has to be crowned by steel rings at the top in order to prevent further expanding of the cracks.

The local tree expert Professor C.Y. Jim pointed out that the problems of fungi and wormholes were clearly the indication of the decaying of the softer outer layer of the timber, and poor drainage design had further speeded up the rotting process. In fact Professor Jim had advocated for the use of stone material at the initial stage of the project. The main reason for the Steering Committee of the project to rule out the usage of stone was that they were worried about a "Stone Sutra Carving would eventually fall apart" due to weathering problems. But to many people's surprise, the material finally selected was timber. Professor Jao, the initiator of the project and the idea of timber carving, had expressed his deep concerns on the situation through his daughter and the Hong Kong University Jao Tsung I Petite Ecole, and wished that the government would look into the problems as soon as possible.

Master Ma, a web-pal of mine, has an enlightening comment on which I can't agree more :

" 'All dharma arise and cease according to the law of cause and effect.' The decaying of the timber columns is a perfect example of 'Impermanent'. The fungi on the top of the columns are actually preaching Buddhist sermon by showing us their survival ability. Just for the sake of another tourist attraction, the government not only killed 38 hundred-year-old trees for the timber, but the natural beauty of the green hill chosen as the site was also destroyed. People make extraordinarily painstaking efforts and spend millions of dollars, hoping to achieve 'Eternity', but at the end, so many brains of such high I.Q. were no matches for the primitive brainless micro-organism. Perhaps the true meaning of the Heart Sutra does not lie in the calligraphy of Professor Jao, nor on that wordless 23rd column. The true meaning of the Heart Sutra exists in that little mushrooms grown out from those decaying timbers, and in those nature loving and respecting hearts."

心經的真義
大嶼山昂平的巨型木刻《心經簡林》，由38根高逾8至10米的古木木樁組成，樁上刻有國學大師饒宗頤教授手書《般若心經》經文，其中第23條最高的木樁沒有任何雕刻，代表著無限和無量，「色即是空，空即是色」之意。

木刻2005年5月開幕至今只一年多，但木樁已先後出現真菌滋生、蟲蛀及裂紋三大問題。還記得當年政府斥資千萬元興建木刻，聲稱木刻經先進納米塗層處理、能防霉防蟲保存百年以上。旅遊事務署及建築署的解釋是，裂紋純屬天然，早已存在；木材放置戶外，發霉亦是正常現象；蟲蛀問題則沒有解釋。一般防霉防蟲的納米塗層，正常情況亦需要隔3至5年補油一次，木樁經歷日曬雨淋，雖然塗層亦難免被沖掉損耗，但木樁出現問題，反映可能當日塗層工序處理不當，以至惡化加速，問題提早出現。

部份木樁的頂端已長出了大大小小的真菌，大若手掌，小如硬幣，呈白色或深褐色；另外兩根木樁出現蟲蛀圓孔，多根木樁亦有蟲蛀痕跡；更甚者是，全部木樁均出現裂紋，木樁頂部只能繫上鐵箍，防止裂紋擴大。

據對樹木頗有研究的詹志勇教授指出，木樁出現蟲蛀及真菌問題，反映木樁外圍較軟弱的部分腐爛，加上排水設計不佳，更加速腐壞。其實詹教授早就提出選用風化速度較慢百倍的石材製作巨柱，簡林計劃督導委員會當年捨石材的原因，是擔心風化作用下「石刻經文會散」，但最終採納的建議，竟然是更易腐爛的木刻。據悉倡議計劃及建議採用木刻的饒教授亦十分關心木刻腐爛問題，透過女兒經港大饒宗頤學術中心表示望政府盡快處理。

對於網友馬老師的慨嘆，深有同感：

「『諸法因緣生，諸法因緣滅』。木柱的腐朽，正好說明甚麼是『無常』！柱上的野菌，正以它的生命力來演說佛法！政府為了弄個景點，不只殺害那些百年老樹，也毀去原來小山丘上的自然美。有人苦心孤詣，以為花盡千金就可買到永恆。結果眾多IQ爆棚的腦袋竟敵不過這些沒頭沒腦的微生物！心經的真義，也許不在饒公之書法，也不在那無字之柱，它只是在那個從朽木中長出的小菇，在每一個敬畏大自然的人的心裡。」

From Middle Kingdom to Star Ferry Pier 從集古村到天星碼頭

From Middle Kingdom to Star Ferry Pier

Two months ago when I was taking a friend to the Ocean Park, I discovered that the famous "Middle Kingdom", the portion of the park that featured the re-creations of ancient China, was gone. The construction of some new feature programs targeting the mainland visitors was on the way. I remember the days when I visited the Ocean Park as a kid : the eye-catching ancient Chinese buildings with red walls and green roofs as well as the beautiful miniature garden in the Middle Kingdom were always very attractive and a big "wow!" to me, though I knew very well that they were just film-like "studio sets". Not surprising, as I set my eyes on the rubble of the demolished buildings, I did not really feel pity for it.

On the other side of the island, the old Star Ferry Pier which has been standing at the waterfront of the Central Hong Kong for nearly 50 years will soon be demolished. My parents used to take me for the ferry rides across the harbour when I was young, and I still do so from time to time when I need to travel between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui. Like me, the pier and its clock tower are already a familiar sight to many Hong Kong citizens young and old. The mechanical clock of the tower, the only functioning one left in Hong Kong, was made by the same manufacturer that built the famous Big Ben of Westminster in London. The chime of the clock is actually quite beautiful, although for those who get so used to it may not feel anything special about it. As part of the reclamation project, the government had decided to relocate the ferry pier and to have the old pier building and its clock tower knock down. It was rather sad to hear the news, just like knowing that an old friend will soon be lost forever.

The main reason for deciding not to preserve the old pier building nor its clock tower by the government is that they are not old enough–at the age of 49, they are still 1 year short to meet the minimum requirement for being considered as local heritage or historical site, and rule is rule. I am no expert of architectural art, but still educated enough to know that the old Star Ferry Pier building is a classic and one of the few remaining examples of Modernist architecture (which emphasizes function, attempts to provide for specific needs rather than imitate nature) in Hong Kong. It has been standing in the heart of the city for half a century, and has certainly become part of the modern history of Hong Kong. Maybe when Modernism itself becomes history decades later, there will be no representative building of that period around, thanks to the stereotyped thinking of our present government. To consider whether an object is worth preserving, historical value, its uniqueness and representivity are not the only things that need to be taken into account There is also an significant element called the Collective Memory, the good and sweet time treasured and shared dearly by Hong Kong's civil society. The second half of the 20th century, especially the 60's and 70's, was the beginning of the era of Hong Kong's rapid economic growth, a time of which many Hong Kong citizens remembered dearly and well. If we have to pick an architectural style that can serve as the best reminder of this period, the Modernist Star Ferry building is obviously a much better candidate. It is very sad to see the destruction of such precious collective memory on the hands of the stubborn decision-makers.

On the other hand, the brand new Star Ferry Pier - a rather odd "historical" building in Victorian style - has just been completed as a replacement to the old one. The new pier is a theme park re-creation of a historical building of which most Hong Kong citizens have no memory, some fake antiques as unrealistic as the Middle Kingdom of the Ocean Park – and they don't even bother to imitate the details and the interior structure! Who will be really interested in such second-rate imitation with just a classical looking shell? Not the Hong Kong citizens, nor will the overseas visitors–they probably find the gateway of the Chinatown at home more interesting.

An experienced and visionary antique expert can see the value of a not-too-old but nevertheless unique and classic object, and will even start collecting it when the cost is still low. However, there are still someone that would prefer the gorgeous and brand new stage costume to the faded but finest antique silk embroidery passed down from grandma. The important value of antiquities comes from the real history behind them, and not the fake antique-looking decoration that being placed on them. I thought that is something simple enough for anyone to understand - maybe not so for the officers and experts in the urban planning and building departments.

從集古村到天星碼頭

早前陪朋友到久違了的海洋公園，看到公園內「集古村」的部份剛拆卸了，聽說是為了改建成另一些更吸引內地遊客的項目。以前到海洋公園遊玩，集古村內美輪美奐的中式古代亭台樓閣、紅牆綠瓦、假山流水，雖然明知都是「片場佈景」，但總教我有「嘩，好靚呀」的讚歎。現在看到拆卸後的滿地碎磚破瓦，反而沒有什麼感覺，半點可惜也沒有。

另一座落中區海傍差不多五十年的天星小輪碼頭，亦即將被拆卸。小時候習慣隨父母乘渡輪來往中環和尖沙咀，天星碼頭是經常出入之地。碼頭鐘樓上的是香港現存唯一的機械報時鐘，據說與倫敦的大笨鐘還是同廠的出品，鐘樓叮噹叮噹的報時音樂，其實頗悅耳，但習以為常之下，一直不覺有什麼特別。聽到政府因為中區填海而決意不會保留舊碼頭和鐘樓的消息時，就好像一位老朋友忽然要永別，心裡感到難過。

一直以來，政府不願保留舊天星碼頭的最大理據，是她不夠古老－還差一年才達到會被考慮保存的資格，所以按本子辦事。自問建築藝術的修養十分有限，但也知道舊天星碼頭是屬於香港已剩餘不多的現代主義建築風格的代表，屹立香港心臟地帶五十年，是香港近代歷史的一部份，幾十年後，當現代主義變為名副其實的古董時，因為政府僵化的決定，這段歷史時期的見證物，我們將會欠奉。一些事物是否值得保存，除了年代的久遠、其獨特的代表性，需要考慮的，還有市民大眾珍視的集體回憶。二十世紀的後半期六七十年代，正是香港經濟開始起飛的輝煌時代，如果要選定一種建築式樣來懷緬，現代主義的舊天星碼頭及鐘樓，明顯是更加恰當，是更能令香港人懷緬的時代的代表建築，決策者執意選擇將其拆卸，把大家的集體記憶抹掉，實在令人痛心。

另一方面，新的天星小輪碼頭亦剛建成，那是一座令人感到突兀的維多利亞時代風格的「古蹟」。新碼頭將一座大部份人沒有記憶的舊建築主題公園式地重現，這類「假歷史」景點，就如「集古村」般的不真實。再者，新碼頭徒有古典外觀，但卻連內涵都省掉，內部無論結構和材料，都懶得認真仿造。一座徒具外殼、純屬包裝的A貨假古蹟，不單本地人毫無感覺，外國遊客也未必有興趣，也許他們老家唐人街的牌樓，比這還有味道得多。

一件年代不太久遠但有獨特代表性的物品，精明的古董鑑賞家會看到它的潛在價值和升值能力，會趁低吸納；但有些人卻只會鍾情釘滿珠片、外觀耀目的新簇道具戲服，而對祖傳下來的退了色但手工精巧的真絲刺繡卻棄之如敝屣。古蹟的重要性，就是來自其真實的歷史，而不是虛構的包裝。這樣簡單的道理，負責城市規劃和建設的各位大人們專家們，難道都不懂？